The Arsenal Files 6/The Arsenal Files 6 (Arsenal Computer).ISO/health/herb_105.zip/HERB_105.FAQ

Text File | 1996-01-22 | 200KB | 4,850 lines

HERB FAQ v1.05
=======================================================================

This text is copyrighted. Feel free to use it and to distribute it, but
don't sell it, don't change it in any way, and make sure to include this
information on where to find the newest version:
 www http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed,
 ftp sunsite.unc.edu or sunsite.sut.ac.jp
/pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/herbal-medicine/faqs/
Commercial use: you have to ask the contributor in question and me.
Have fun reading it, I had fun compiling it.
Henriette <[e-mail]>

=======================================================================

A culinary herb FAQ / Resource list for the rec.gardens newsgroup.
Available by www: http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed/culiherb.html
and ftp: ftp sunsite.unc.edu /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-
    healthcare/herbal-medicine/faqs/culiherb.txt

==========
CONTENTS
----------
1  Introduction
. 1.1  Contributors
* 1.2  Wishlist - CHANGED - of course
2  Herbs: gardening / harvesting / using them
  2.x  This is the structure of the herb entries:
    2.x.1  Growing ___
    2 x 2  Harvesting ___
    2.x.3  Using / preserving ___
    2.x.4  Which ___ do you have?
     And these are the herbs so far:
. 2.1  Basil
. 2.2  Curry plant / Curry leaf
. 2.3  Sage
. 2.4  Chives
. 2.5  Saffron
. 2.6  Zucchini flowers
. 2.7  Chamomile
. 2.8  Coriander/Cilantro
* 2.9  The mints - CHANGED - a bit only
. 2.10 Feverfew and Pyrethrum
* 2.11 Tarragon - CHANGED
* 2.12 Nasturtiums - CHANGED
. 2.13 Dill
* 2.14 Rosemary - CHANGED
. 2.15 Lavender
. 2.16 Lemon balm
* 2.17 Garlic - CHANGED
. 2.18 Thyme
* 2.19 Lemon grass - CHANGED
. 2.20 Horseradish
. 2.21 Fennel
* 2.22 Anise Hyssop - ADDITION
. 2.23 Parsley
. 2.24 Monarda or Bee Balm
. 2.25 Ginger
3  Gardening
. 3.1  Herbs for ground cover
. 3.2  Herbs you can't get rid of (= easy gardening)
. 3.3  Tall herbs
. 3.4  Herbs for shade
. 3.5  Growing herbs indoors
. 3.6  Growing herbs from cuttings
* 3.7  Warning signs of soil nutrient deficiencies - ADDITION
4  Processing herbs
. 4.1  Herb vinegars
. 4.2  Herb oil
. 4.3  Drying your herbs
. 4.4  Freezing your herbs
. 4.5  Fresh or dry? (Nothing yet)
. 4.6  Jelly, syrup and other sweet stuff
.   4.6.1  Flower / herb jelly
.   4.6.2  Flower / herb syrup
.   4.6.3  Miscellanious sweet stuff
. 4.7  Potpourris and other uses for dried herbs / flowers
.   4.7.1  Stovetop potpourri
.   4.7.2  Dry potpourri
.   4.7.3  Drying flowers whole for potpourri
.   4.7.4  Bath salts
. 4.8  Beverages
.   4.8.1  Wine
.   4.8.2  Ginger ale / ginger beer
. 4.9  Recipes using lots of herbs
.   4.9.1  Gazpacho
.   4.9.2  Pesto
.   4.9.3  Miscellanious
.   4.9.4  Spice mixes
.   4.9.5  Mustards
5  Sites to see
. 5.1  FTP sites
. 5.2  WWW pages

==========
1 Introduction

-----
Here's the sixth(?) posting of the culinary/gardening herbfaq.
Have fun (... I do).

[e-mail]

==========

1.1 Contributors

-----
FAQ Keeper: Henriette Kress, [e-mail].

Very active contributors so far (listed alphabetically):
  How do you get listed here? Easy. Give me some good input on any missing
  item ('wishlist'), or a valuable correction on any entry, or a valuable
  addition on any entry. ;) All good stuff is welcome.
Catherine A Hensley ([e-mail])
Christel Reeve ([e-mail])
Conrad Richter ([e-mail])
Donna Beach ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Gwen Baker ([e-mail])
Jeff Benjamin ([e-mail])
Jennifer A. Cabbage <[e-mail]>
JR Schroeder ([e-mail])
Judith Rogow ([e-mail])
Karen Fletcher ([e-mail])
Lawrence H Smith ([e-mail])
Leslie Basel ([e-mail])
Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Malcolm Farmer ([e-mail])
Michael Rooney ([e-mail])
Rene Burrough ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Sonny Hays-Eberts ([e-mail])
Susan Hattie Steinsapir ([e-mail])
Susan L. Nielsen ([e-mail])

Others:
[e-mail]
Alan Woods ([e-mail])
Amy Smith ([e-mail])
Amy Snell ([e-mail])
Andreas Guenin ([e-mail])
Ann Albers ([e-mail])
Anne E. Comer ([e-mail])
Annette (no email address)
Barbara Seeton ([e-mail])
Bess Haile ([e-mail])
Carole Henson ([e-mail])
Ceci Henningsson ([e-mail])
Christine A. Owens ([e-mail])
Christopher Loffredo ([e-mail])
Christopher Hedley ([e-mail])
Dan Baldwin ([e-mail])
David Bennett ([e-mail])
David Perry <[e-mail]>
David & Paula Oliver ([e-mail])
Debbie Golembiski ([e-mail])
Denise Henry ([e-mail])
Diana Politika ([e-mail])
Dina ([e-mail])
Don Wiss ([e-mail])
Dwight Sipler ([e-mail])
Elizabeth Platt ([e-mail])
Eric Hunt ([e-mail])
Eve Dexter ([e-mail])
Graham Sorenson ([e-mail])
Gregory R. Cook ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
J Michel ([e-mail])
James Michael Kocher ([e-mail])
Jason Wade Rupe ([e-mail])
Jeanne Ross ([e-mail])
Jeffrey Clayton ([e-mail]) (Barb.)
Jennifer Norris ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
[e-mail]
[e-mail]
Joey L Hanson ([e-mail])
John Pedlow ([e-mail])
Josh Bogin ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Julia Moravcsik ([e-mail])
Julia Trachsel ([e-mail])
K Raghunandan ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Kate Blacklock ([e-mail])
Kate Borley <[e-mail]>
Kathleen Snyder ([e-mail])
Kathy French ([e-mail])
Kaycee Curr ([e-mail])
Kenneth Nilsson ([e-mail])
Kim Pratt <[e-mail]>
[e-mail]
Laurie Otto <[e-mail]>
Leslie Paul Davies ([e-mail])
Libby Goldstein ([e-mail])
Mandy Haggith ([e-mail])
Mari J Stoddard ([e-mail])
Mark David Morrison ([e-mail])
Marylin Kraker ([e-mail])
Mel Atchley ([e-mail])
Melissa C. Davidson ([e-mail])
Michelle Marie Manke ([e-mail])
Mike Stallcup ([e-mail])
Nancy Moote ([e-mail])
Naomi Brokaw ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Patrick Millard <[e-mail]>
Peter Harris ([e-mail])
Peter Mortimer ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Rick Cook ([e-mail])
Rick Giese ([e-mail])
Rita Melnick ([e-mail])
Robert G. Nold ([e-mail])
Rudy Taraschi ([e-mail])
Ruth J Fink-Winter ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Sam Waring ([e-mail])
Sarah G. ([e-mail])
Sheri McRae ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Stavros Macrakis ([e-mail])
Steen Goddik ([e-mail])
Stephanie da Silva ([e-mail])
Steve Cogorno ([e-mail])
Susan D. Hill ([e-mail])
Suzanne M. Engels ([e-mail])
[e-mail]
Tom Havey ([e-mail])
Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bristo>
[e-mail]
Waldek Trafidlo ([e-mail])
wayne chase ([e-mail])
Wendi L Gardner ([e-mail])
Wolf ([e-mail])
Xiaoyan Ma ([e-mail])
Yasha Hartberg ([e-mail])

==========

1.2 Wishlist

-----
Still a lot missing:

Single herbs, diverse missing bits:
  If you find holes in the entries feel free to fill them.
  Also, I take info on any culinary herb you wish to write extensively
  on, including those not mentioned in this FAQ yet; eg.: horehound,
  borage, marjoram, anise, oregano, ...

Gardening:
  3.2  more herbs you can't get rid of once they're planted
  3.3  more on tall herbs
  3.x  anything else on herb gardening you might think of.

Processing herbs
  4.5  fresh or dry?
  4.x  any other way to process herbs you might think of.

Sites to see
  5.1  more FTP sites.
  5.2  more WWW sites.

End of wishlist.

If you decide to add something tell me - I'll keep track of who
promises to do what so we won't have doubles.

==========

2 Herbs: growing, harvesting, using/preserving, and checking which you've
really got

-----
This is the main spot for information. Check this before posting yet
another question on curry plant... on the other hand every time
somebody asks for uses for mints some new ones pop up so keep
asking for those.   ;)

Repeating the structure of the herb entries:
    2.x.1  Growing ___
    2.x.2  Harvesting ___
    2.x.3  Using / preserving ___
    2.x.4  Which ___ do you have?

==========

2.1 Basil

-----
Latin name: Ocimum basilicum, other Ocimum species.

=====
2.1.1  Growing basil
-----

From: [e-mail] (engels s.m.):
Basil loves the sun and hates the cold & wind.  If it drops below 50
degrees at night, the leaves will yellow.  When it warms up the new
growth will be green.  If it doesn't get enough sun and stays in
damp soil too long, it will eventually die.  The wind will bruise
the leaves.  So will rough handling.  Again, the new growth will be
fine.

Very important to harden basil plants. Transplant shock may kill them.
Set the pots outside for 3-5 days (watch the night temps) before
transplanting.

I use compost and occasionally organic fertilizer.  Never had any bug
problems.  A few caterpillars and rabbits, but there was plenty for
everyone in my patch.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney), in response to above:
I believe it is better to not transplant basil, i.e., it is better to
put seeds in the ground where you want it, when it is warm enough for
them to grow.  They will quickly outstrip the transplants however
carefully they have been grown and hardened.

Yes, they do tend not to attract many bugs which is a surprise given
their good taste.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Carole Henson)
I am addicted to basil, really love it, even the smell is wonderful. I
have 10 basil plants in my greenhouse at the moment, and two in the
kitchen for chucking into salad etc.  You only need a couple of
large handfuls of leaves for a jar of pesto, so a couple of plants
would do it.  If you sow a few seeds at 2 weekly intervals, you
should have a constant supply.

-----
From: Dwight Sipler <[e-mail]>
There are several different varieties of basil. Mammoth basil has very
large leaves, although the leaves are somewhat savoyed (wrinkled).

I've had good luck with Genovese basil, which I get from Johnny's
Selected Seeds. No particular soil preparation, just normal garden
soil, fertilized every other year, limed as necessary (determined by
pH test). I put in about 600 plants and I always lose a dozen or so
to cutworms, critters etc., but it's not a big problem. I plant
marigolds nearby since the japanese beetles seem to like them and
they keep the beetles off the basil plants.

-----
>basil eaten to skeleton; more eaten each morning, no bugs evident?

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
There is a caterpillar that seems often to like basil that lives under
the surface of the earth during the day.  Gently disturb the top
quarter or half inch of dirt in a circle around the plant going out
about four inches or so and look for a dark gray circle about half to
three quarters of an inch in diameter that usually stays that way and
sometimes opens up to get away (depending on how deep a sleep it is
in I guess :-)).  If you find it, squash it and hope.  The only other
predator I can see that would do what you have is a lot of slugs so
you would likely see them anyway.  They can be taken care of by all
the standard beer, diatomaceous earth, etc. methods in addition to
hand picking.

There are few joys as great as finding one of those blasted
caterpillars in the ground after they have been eating your food, let
me tell you.

-----
> basil wilting in the sun?

From: [e-mail] (Josh Bogin)
Probably this is due to not enough water **and or possibly resulting
from** not enough room for the plants.  If the plants are root-bound
it really will hardly matter how much you are watering them, since
the pot would presumably be too small to hold much water, the plant
would keep drying out, and also the roots probably get no nutrients.
Give them some plant food, and think about finding them more room,
if this is the problem.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Wolf)
Here in Southern California, (Pasadena) our sweet Basil that "was" in
full sun started wilting one after the other. Every couple of days,
another one wilted. The sweet Basil we planted in part-shade (Morning
shade, afternoon full sun) is thriving, and the plants are giant.
They make great pesto. On the other hand, we have some purple Basil
which is also in full sun, and it is completely unaffected by the
heat.  All plants are getting really big, despite frequent pinching.
All plants get plenty of water, and the dirt around the dying plants
was plenty moist.

The instructions on seed packets are simply not meant for folks in the
Southwest.

Sweet basil is heat intolerant. It will do great in full sun if the
temperatures don't exeed 85-90 degrees on average. Any hotter, and it
starts wilting in full sun.

-----
> have basil in pot; can I plant it outside?

From: Debbie Golembiski <[e-mail]>
You sure can move your potted basil into the ground.  Just cut it back
a bit first and try to move it with as much soil intact as possible.
Basil loves full sun, so pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours of
sun daily.

-----
> saw some basil for sale with huge healthy green leaves that put mine
> to shame.

From: [e-mail] (Wolf)
The guys who have these giant sweet basil plants feed them with Urea.
Seems to do the trick. Also, sweet basil doesn't like it too hot, and
likes to have moist soil. Make sure you pinch off any flowers before
they go to seed. If you follow these guidelines, you should get giant
plants.

-----
> ...no basil sprouting - too wet for the last three weeks?

From: [e-mail] (Rick Giese):
Basil seeds will not germinate when they are constantly wet.  I started
mine in flats protected from the winter rains here on Maui.  Once
transplanted to the field, they did fine.

=====
2.1.2  Harvesting basil
-----

From: [e-mail] (engels s.m.):
You can harvest basil leaves as soon as the plant has 3 sets of leaves.
Keep the plants branches shorter than 4 sets of leaves and you will
increase leaf production. Once it flowers, production drops.  I've
found the taste stronger befor flowering.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Mark David Morrison)
Basil leaf harvesting: pick all that you think that you will need for
the recipe that you are preparing. If you have a lot of basil and are
freezing basil for winter then just pick the big leaves. I use a lot
of basil and pick leaves from the plant almost daily. If they are
Pinching back basil:  Always pinch off and use those tops. The leaves
will really bush out on your basil when you do.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Kathleen Snyder)
Pick all over. Don't strip the stems of all the leaves. Be careful not
to tear the stem when cutting off a leaf. I use scissors. Tearing can
some times strip the stem and damage it.

Pinching will make in fuller. Don't let it flower either. Pinch off the
flower buds the minute you see them coming.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Dina)
I often just go out and pluck off as much as I need once the plants are
established--sometimes a third or more of the plant, depending on
whether I'm making salad, herbing vinegars, or harvesting some to
dry. Pinching back makes the plants bushier, and I'd definitely start
cutting back when the plants start to flower.  They grow back
quickly.

-----
From: David Perry <[e-mail]>
The best method is to pinch them back at the main stem(s) a couple of
times early in their lives.  This will create a bushier plant rather
than the single tree looking specimen.

Thereafter, just take the tips of the stems to keep the plant from
going to seed.  You will notice the tips become very heavy with small
pointier leaves just before it goes to seed.  Clip back any large
main leaves when you notice the secondary buds beginning to show
along the main stem, or when they get too big and seem to be sapping
the rest of the plant (these leaves are great to wrap steaks for the
grill, snip for salads etc...mmmmm!)

I also found that the leaves are oilier and more fragrant early in the
day or at night.  Of course, most of us don't use basil at 3 a.m.

Also, basil really doesn't have to be spaced out as much as the packet
literature states.  I fill 1/2 barrels of basil every year.  I thin
out only enough to keep full sun and air circulation on all plants.

=====
2.1.3  Using / preserving basil
-----
Also see Pesto, 4.9.2 below

-----
> ... alternatives for using pesto or fresh sweet basil?

From: [e-mail] (Jason Wade Rupe)
I bake it right into bread sometimes.
I like a stir fry of basil and whatever with a basic simple sauce on
rice.
Try using it fresh as a pizza topping.

From: [e-mail] (Steve Cogorno)
Take GOOD quality tomatoes, preferably ones you've grown yourself :-)
and slice them.  Top with fresh mozzarella whole basil leaves.  A
little expensive because of the cheese, but it makes a very colorful
and tasty appetizer!

-----
From: [e-mail] (Kathy French)
If your basil plants aren't producing fast enough to give you a cup or
two of leaves at a time, you can pinch off stems and keep them with
the ends of the stems in clean water (change it every few days) at
room temperature for several days.  Freezing the leaves doesn't work
so well, because it will make them mushy when they thaw, and it
reduces their flavor as well.

You can also preserve basil by washing it carefully, drying it
thoroughly, packing it in good olive oil, and keeping it in the
refrigerator.  Then you can use the leaves plus oil to make pesto
fresh when you want it by adding garlic, cheese, and pine nuts.
I've tried this method and it works well, although the basil turns
somewhat dark in the process.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
You can make basil pesto and freeze it in cubes or patties and
save it for the winter when you have nothing fresh to use.

-----
BASIL OIL
-----
From: Laurie Otto <[e-mail]>
Someone asked about drying basil.  In my opinion, it wastes flavor to
dry basil.  Better to put it in the food processor with olive oil,
make a paste and freeze it for later use. Or try making salted oiled
basil leaves:

Note: Even though a lot of oil is used for this it can be cleaned off
before using the basil so please don't discount this in the interest
of maintaining a low-fat lifestyle! The oil is merely a preservative
and it does keep the basil absolutely fresh for months!

Carefully clean *and dry* each leaf.  Use a salad spinner or swing the
leaves around in a clean, dry towel for a few minutes.  Pat dry, just
to be sure...:)  This is really important, so please be thorough!
Next pour a little virgin- or extra-virgin olive oil into a sealable
crock, preferably a stone one.  The small kind used to house
cheesespreads are ideal!  Sprinkle a little salt on the oil.  Add a
single layer of basil leaves, careful not to overlap them.  Cover
with a thin layer of oil and sprinkle with more salt.  Do this until
the crock is full, then top off with oil and salt.  Seal.  Store in
the refrigerator and it will keep indefinitely.  To use the basil,
simply take out what you need *with a very clean utensil* and, if you
like, wash it well to remove the salt and oil.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Melissa C. David)
I tried to make basil oil the other day. I had a steril, sealed bottle,
basil from the yard, and olive oil. Put the herbs in the bottle,
completely covered with oil plus a few inches. Supposed to be good
for many months but the basil molded up within 2 weeks !! Help!

From: [e-mail] (Lesleigh G. Federinic) to above:
I always refrigerate mine.  Only once did it mold on me in the frig but
then I had it there for several months during the winter and hadn't
been using it.  I use it up in the summer.  It's good for frying
zuccini and mushrooms as well as making angel hair pasta sauce.

From: [e-mail] (Yasha Hartberg)
I'm not sure having never done it myself, but it seems a bit strange to
start with a sterile bottle and then add non-sterile leaves and oil
to it and expect anything less than mold, bacteria, etc.  I wonder if
you might not try heating the mixture up a bit before sealing the
bottle?

-----
From: [e-mail] (J Michel)
For years I've been preserving end of the summer basil leaves in olive
oil with salt (lots - don't know how much - sprinkled on successive
additions of leaves and oil to cover).  The leaves turn black in the
oil, but not moldy, and thru the winter I fish out a couple from time
to time to use in cooking.  I store it in the refrig. and in summmer
I toss out the salt which has settled to the bottom of the jar along
with the last of the oil.

I am about to be a convert to the Ice cube basil/oil pesto storage
method in order to eliminate the salt.  However, I'd suggest
experimenting with adding salt, or trying refrigeration.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Rick Cook)
The key is moisture. If there's moisture in the plant (as there is in
basil leaves -- a lot of it) you're likely to get mold when you make
basil oil.

If you want to make basil oil, grind the basil into a paste, add to the
olive oil to steep for a while in the refrigerator and then filter
the mixture.

-----
HeK to above: You'll have the taste in the oil, but the moisture will
still be in the leaves, which are filtered out.

-----
DRYING BASIL
-----
> drying basil - how long?

From: Kim Pratt <[e-mail]>
The time factor really depends on where you hang it to dry, what the
temperature is.  Mine usually takes about 2 or 3 weeks to dry.  That
is hanging upside down with stems tied together in a bundle, in the
kitchen.  If you have a dusty house, after tying together in a bundle
put inside a small paper bag that has been punched full of small
holes and hang that (tie the top of the bag to the top of the stems
so your herbs are still hanging upside down).

From: [e-mail] (Eve Dexter)
My dehydrator has a fan and the drying takes only 1 1/2 -2 hours,
depending upon the humidity of the day of course.  I suggest you
start in the am and keep a close eye on the process - it shouldn't
take too much longer in your model.

=====
2.1.4  Which basil do you have?
-----
To start the ball rolling:

From: [e-mail] (Malcolm Farmer):
Some suppliers offer different varieties of basil. Chiltern Seeeds in
the UK, for example, has about a *dozen* different varieties.  Two I
have growing now are:

Lemon basil - thinner, smaller, rather pointed leaves when compared
with regular basil.  Has strong lemony odour: when you tear up the
leaves the smell is gorgeous, somewhere between mint and basil.

Thai basil - similar in appearence to lemon basil leaves, but slightly
darker with stems having a purplish tinge. Scent is somewhat like
regular basil, but much spicier and more fragrent.  A friend says her
Thai cooking using regular basil never tastes quite the same as
authentic thai, so I'm going to give her some of the thai stuff to
see if that's the reason....

==========

2.2 Curry plant / Curry leaf

-----
Latin name: Curry Plant: Helichrysum angustifolium;
            Curry Leaf: Murraya Koenigii

=====
2.2.4  Which curry plant / curry leaf do you have?
-----

From: [e-mail] (Information Services)
The "Curry Plant" is an herb, Helichrysum angustifolium, from the
family Compositae.  I believe it came from Africa or Australia, so
it's tropical, and probably perennial; although in North Texas you
may need to grow it as an annual or in a container (probably not
frost-hardy). The name "curry plant" originated from this herb's
pungent smell, which is reminiscent of some curries or curry
powders; however it is not used in curry.  I believe that it is
widely cultivated in the U.K., and is used there mostly in salads,
or mixed with cream-cheese.

There actually is a plant that produces what is known as the "curry
leaf", and which *is* used in the preparation of some curries (much
the same way as bay leaf is used).  The leaves of this plant, a
woody tree from the Asian sub-continent called Murraya Koenigii,
also have a strong curry-like smell, and can be purchased dried at
most asian markets.  The tree itself has only recently been
cultivated commercially in this country, and is carried by only a
very few nurseries.  It is still considered an exotic, and commands
a premium price.

==========

2.3 Sage

-----
Latin name: Salvia officinalis, other Salvia species.

=====
2.3.1  Growing sage
-----

From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Sage is a perennial here in zone 5.  It's a very easy-to-grow plant.
  Half a day of sun, reasonable soil, and don't let it get too awfully
  dry.
The main problem with sage is to keep it under control.  I've never had
  any insect problems with it.  Pinch small plants to make them branch,
  then let them grow to harvesting size.  Don't let stems get so tall
  that they lay down, or you'll end up with a twisted, woody mess in a
  couple of years.

=====
2.3.2 Harvesting sage
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Harvest sage before it blooms.  After the dew dries in the morning, cut
  the stems, leaving a leaf or two at the bottom.  I air-dry my sage,
  stringing the stems on a strong thread and hanging it in a breeze.
  It will dry leathery rather than crisp, because the leaves are so
  thick.  Strip the dry leaves from the stems and place the leaves into
  a jar.  Chop or rub the leaves into powder when you need to use them.
To use fresh sage, clip off enough of a branch to get the number of
  leaves you need, strip off the leaves, and chop them up if desired.

=====
2.3.3  Using / preserving sage
-----
> I have a very healthy sage plant in my garden but I don't know what
  to use the herb for, except of course for stuffing a chicken.

From: [e-mail] (engels s.m.)
Stuff a few leaves into the cavity of a trout. Tie with string, baste
  with a little oil and grill.  Use only 1 or 2 leaves per fish
  otherwise the sage will overpower the fish.
Chop fine, lightly saute in olive oil with minced garlic.  Add a little
  chopped parsley & toss with spaghetti or other pasta.  Serve as a
  side dish to grilled chicken, fish or meat.
Toss a few sage leaves with quartered onion and flattened garlics into
  clay pot chicken.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
We use sage for stuffing turkeys in addition to chickens, if you have
  turkeys in the UK.  We also use it in foccacio... ...Sage pesto is
  another way to use large quantity of sage and it can be frozen to be
  used in the winter.  You might use walnuts or pecans instead of the
  traditional pignoli nuts in pesto as sage is stronger than basil.
  It goes well with pork or chicken.  You can also roast eggplant and
  sweet red pepper and food process them together with sage for a nice
  dip to be used with homemade french bread.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Focaccio with Sage

Deriving its name from the Latin word focus, meaning "hearth," focaccia
evolved from the unleavened hearth cake eaten during the Middle Ages.
It was made by patting the dough into a flat round and cooking it
directly on a hot stone or under a mound of hot ashes.  While it has
become something of a national dish, this popular bread's true home is
the area around Genoa.  It seems as if every seaside resort on the
Italian Riviera has its own special focaccia.  Whether soft or crisp,
thick or thin, the dough is typically flavored with local herbs and
olive oil.

Sponge
0.5 cup warm water (105 to 115 deg.F)
1 tsp dry yeast
0.75 cup unbleached all purpose flour

Place 0.5 cup water in large bowl. Stir in yeast. Let stand until yeast
dissolves and mixture is cloudy, about 10 minutes.  Stir in flour.
Cover with plastic. Let stand until very bubbly, about 45 minutes.

Focaccia
1 cup warm water (105 to 115 deg.F)
1 tsp dry yeast
0.25 cup plus 2 Tbs olive oil
3.25 cups unbleached all purpose flour
3 Tbs finely chopped fresh sage

Place 1 cup water in small bowl.  Stir in yeast.  Let stand until yeast
dissolves and mixture is cloudy, about 10 minutes.  Stir in dissolved
yeast mixture and 0.25 cup olive oil into sponge in large bowl.  Stir
in 1 cup flour.  Stir in 2 Tbs chopped sage.  Add remaining flour in 2
batches, mixing until well blended after each additions.  Turn out dough
onto lightly floured surface.  Knead dough until soft and velvety,
about 10 minutes.

Oil large bowl.  Add dough, turning to coat with oil.  Cover with plastic.
Let dough rise in warm area until doubled, about 1 hour 15 minutes.
Oil 11x17 inch baking sheet.  Punch down dough.  Transfer to prepared
sheet.  Using oiled hands, press out dough to cover bottom of pan.
Cover dough with kitchen towel.  Let stand 10 minutes (dough will shrink).
Press out dough again to cover pan.  Cover with towel.  Let rise in warm
draft free area until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, position rack in center of oven.  Place baking stone on rack
and preheat oven to 425 deg.F.

Using fingertips, press dough all over, creating dimples.  Drizzle dough
with 2 Tbs oil.  Sprinkle with 1 Tbs sage.

Place pan directly on pizza stone.  Spray oven with water from spray bottle.
Bake until focaccia is golden and top is crisp, spraying oven with water
twice more during first 10 minutes, about 25 minutes total.  Transfer
bread to rack.  Cool slightly.  Serve bread warm or at room temperature.

Makes one foccacia, 4 servings.  Per serving, 400 calories, 13 g protein,
87 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 3 g fiber, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat,
0 mg cholesterol and 0 mg sodium.

Bon Appetit, May 1995

-----
From: [e-mail] (Peter Mortimer):
It also makes a great addition to just about any green salad, either
tossed in as whole leaves or cut up in small pieces.

From: [e-mail] (RGyure):
I discovered last summer that garden sage makes a beautiful and
fragrant addition to fresh cut flower bouquets I bring in from the
garden. I grow more than I can use in cooking (who uses that much
sage?)-- and the pale green, white-frosted somewhat sparkly leaves
make delightful foliage for cutting-- and are long-lasting.

From: [e-mail] (VShafer216):
I recently tried a really good recipe that uses fried sage--it tastes
great.  Broil chicken thighs (marinate first).  When done, fry
several leaves of sage in butter; this takes less than a minute.
Grate cheese on top of the chicken thighs. Spoon some of the hot
butter over the chicken (this melts the cheese) and put one or two
sage leaves on top of each piece of chicken.  Fried sage tastes good
even without the chicken.

From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)
Dried and added to a fire at Thanksgiving or Christmas, it adds a nice
Holiday scent to the house.

From: [e-mail] (Leslie Basel)
Sage jelly is just terrific with game, lamb, even a Christmas goose.
The recipe is just the same as any other herb jelly (and it requires
quite a bit of culinary sage). (jelly recipe 4.6.1 below).

-----
From: [e-mail] (MelAtchley)
Decorative:  Leaves in wreaths and nosegays.

Culinary:  Flower in salads or infuse for a light balsamic tea. Leaves
can be mixed with onion for poultry stuffing.  Cook with rich, fatty
meats such as pork, duck and sausage.  Combine with other strong
flavors:  wrap around tender liver and saute in butter; blend into
cheeses.  Make sage vinegar and sage butter.

Household:  Dried leaves in linent to discourage insects.

Medicinal:  Leaves aids in digestion and is antiseptic, antifungal and
contains estrogen.  Helps to combat diarrhea.  An infusion of sage
leaves and a meal can help digestion.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Dan  Baldwin)
I had sage mashed potatoes as a side dish at a five star restaurant
last week--they were really good ! There were flecks of sage
scattered all through the potatoes--Cant wait to try it myself.

From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Here's an oddity:  sage makes a good insect repellent!  Put a handful
of sage sprigs and 3 mint sprigs in a pot.  Pour over them 1 quart of
boiling water and allow to steep.  When cool, strain out the herbs
and add 1 quart of rubbing alcohol.  To use, splash or spray onto
hair, skin, clothes.  It won't stay on if you're sweating heavily or
swimming, but otherwise it's great.

-----
From: [e-mail] (engels s.m.):
Sage dries very nicely and looks pretty.  Bundle 8-10 sprigs, tie, hang
to dry and put a red bow on it at Xmas.  Use as a decoration for
wrapped gifts or give as an small culinary gift.

=====
2.3.4  Which sage do you have?
-----
There are a few other plants that are called Sage and that taste very
bitter. If your sage is called Artemisia in latin forget the cooking
part. If it is Salvia try a leave or two and if the taste is OK just
go on and use it.

To illustrate:
From: [e-mail] (Joey L Hanson)
Subject: Re: What's the worse thing you ever ate?
Ever try sage brush tea?  Kind of tastes like you're drinking insect
repellent would be the closest thing I can relate to it.  Damndest
thing though it made ya spit blue kind of like a smurf trying to get
the taste outta your mouth.

==========

2.4 Chives

-----
Latin name: Chives: Allium schoenoprasum.
            Chinese chives: Allium tuberosum.

=====
2.4.1 Growing chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
I started with a small pot from a discount store, planted it in
  moderately poor soil that got about 1/2 day sun.  It went crazy! Grew
  big, made flowers and seeds, the next year the seeds came up and
  (repeat previous line over and over and over ... ).  I now have about
  6 square feet of chives.  I don't even water them.
After they blossom and the flowers dry, you can collect the drying
  flowers and shake out the seeds to plant elsewhere.  The blossom
  stems should be removed to prevent their being harvested by accident,
  as they are rather woody and tough.  They'll dry out anyway, and
  should be removed to keep the plant looking nice.
A funny thing happened with that first plant.  It was next to a rose
  bush infested with aphids.  When I planted the chives, the aphids
  disappeared.  Then I got a fruit tree that had problems with aphids.
  I scattered some chive seeds, and the aphids disappeared again.
Chives are so easy to grow that I don't think I'll ever be without them
  again.  To get a start, find some chive seeds or a pot of chives.
To grow them indoors, put on a sunny windowsill and water when the soil
  gets a bit dry.

=====
2.4.2  Harvesting chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Chives are best harvested with a scissors or sharp knife.  Cut the
  blade as close to the ground as possible without injuring other
  blades. It's best to cut individual blades unless you are shearing
  the whole plant.  This leaves the newly sprouted blades to grow
  bigger for your next harvest.
If you're harvesting during or after blooming time, watch out for those
  blossom stems.  They're tough and woody.
Rinse the blades, gather together in bunches, and cut across with a
  sharp knife into the size you need.
When chives are in flower, you can snip off the flowers and use them
  before they start to fade.

From: ?
I cut my chives back to the ground about three times each summer.  I've
  found that this forces them to send up a whole bunch of replacement
  shoots.  I usually wait to pick a few of the flowers to include in
  arrangements.

From: [e-mail]
> My chives are flowering.  Should I pinch off the flowers so they will
  not start to die for the winter?
Chives, if well established in the garden, tend to flower in early spring,
  and sometimes again in mid-summer.  The chive bloosoms make an excellent
  vinegar, and can be used in baking if pulled apart.  I don't cut my
  chives back, but let the seed fall to the ground resulting in more chives
  the following year.

=====
2.4.3  Using / preserving chives
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Chives dry nicely, but lose much of their flavor in the process.  If
  you want chives in winter, grow a pot on the windowsill.
Chives can be used in any recipe that calls for chopped green onions.
  This gives a slightly different, somewhat milder flavor.
Chopped chives make a wonderful addition to salads.  I use them instead
  of onions when the sweet onions aren't available, because the regular
  onions give me terrible heartburn.
Chive flowers are also wonderful in salads.  They are both pretty and
  delicious, with a peppery-oniony flavor.
Chopped chives are great with potatoes.  Baked potatoes with sour cream
  and chives is a classic, but you don't need the sour cream.  Just
  baked potatoes with chives is tasty.  Perhaps add a squirt of lemon
  juice!  Also try chopped chives on top of mashed potatoes, or mixed
  in.
Chopped chives make a wonderful garnish for almost any non-sweet dish,
  and add a mild onion flavor as well.

From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)
Chive Vinegar
When your chives (esp. garlic chives, yummmmmy) are in bloom take four
  or five of the prettiest stalks w/heads and put them in a clear jar,
  cover w/white vinegar, cover, and stand in a dark cupboard for about
  a week. You will have pinkish vinegar w/a heavenly flavour.
DO, however, watch out that the stalks do not have ants!

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
  It is also possible to make chive pesto.

==========

2.5 Saffron

-----
Latin name: Crocus sativus.

=====
2.5.1  Growing saffron
-----
From: [e-mail] (Robert G. Nold)
Crocus sativus comes up and blooms without autmun rain in Denver,
and grows throughout the winter here, too. Like all fall-blooming
crocus (of which there are many species), they go dormant in summer.

=====
2.5.2  Harvesting saffron
-----
From: [e-mail] (Kaycee Curr):
...it is the threads that you would collect and dry. There are three of
them (the stigmas) per crocus flower. (Over a million crocus flowers
produce a pound of saffron- phew!)

From: [e-mail] (Leslie Paul Davies):
In planning your planting, estimate 6 mature plants will provide the
stigmas for one small recipe.

=====
2.5.4  Which saffron do you have?
-----
From: [e-mail] (wayne chase):
I have recently heard of a substitute for saffron.  Dried Marigolds.
Just air dry well and grind to powder.  Use twice the amount of
marigold as saffron to get same result.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Rita Melnick):
Saffron comes from Crocus sativus, the saffron crocus.  It is a fall
blooming crocus.  Each flower contains 3 red threads (stigma) that
you pick, then dry, for culinary use.  Be sure to get ONLY Crocus
sativus, not the other fall-blooming crocuses, as they are NOT
edible.

As for the marigolds, I'm not sure if the above advice applies to all
varieties of marigolds, but I do know that it is true of the pot
marigold, also known as Calendula.  It gives the yellow coloring of
saffron, but not the saffron taste.  Turmeric is also a yellowing
substitute for saffron.  But nothing else tastes like saffron!

==========

2.6 Zucchini flowers

-----
Latin name: Cucurbita pepo.

=====
2.6.3  Using zucchini flowers

-----
From: [e-mail]
Zucchini flowers battered and fried are far superior to anything else
you can do with zucchini. Mix water, flour, salt & pepper to a
pancake consistancy. If you want a fluffier batter add baking
powder. Deep fry and eat them while hot. Tastes like a hint of
Zucchini with creamy texture and chees quality. 4 Zucchini plants is
3 too many :)

==========

2.7 Chamomile

-----
Latin names: German chamomile: Matricaria recutita
             Roman Chamomile: Chamaemelum nobile
             English Chamomile: Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague'

=====
2.7.1  Growing chamomile
-----

> chamomile as groundcover - any experiences?

[e-mail] (Anne E. Comer)
Chamomile is not usually the recommended choice for *HUGE* areas.  It
is sometimes used in mixtures.  By itself it is best used in
smallish areas where there will not be heavy foot traffic.  It can
stand some walking on and in fact that is one reason that it is used.
When troden on it releases a fragrance that is very pleasant to many
people.

From: Denise Henry <[e-mail]>
Remember chamomile is not a grass !! This means that selective lawn
weedkillers don't work. Make sure ground is well prepared with no
perennial weeds and keep the site hand weeded in the first year until
the plants grow together, after that you may still need to hand weed
two or three times a year. A chamomile lawn is something special, but
you can tell it was invented by people of a by-gone age with lots of
money and a large supply of garden labourers. Try it in a small area
by all means but only if you are prepared for some hard work.
(P.S. I think it is worth the effort.)

-----
From: [e-mail] (Naomi Brokaw)
I like it, but it's not as carefree as some make it sound. I planted it
last year (check the sections in the nursery where they sell herbs in
flats).  I was worried about mowing it before it got established, so
I was going to wait until the cooler weather.  Of course, this year,
"cooler weather" meant about 7 months of rain (I'm just south of you,
in Santa Cruz), so I could mow.  The camomile reached up, up, sending
sun-seeking stems into my lavender, rock roses, rosemary, and yarrow.
By the time I finally found the time and weather to mow, it was way
too high, so I had to clip down by hand. That meant taking out most
of the green stems and leaving the brown mat underneath.  However, it
did grow back the green within a few weeks, much faster than I
feared.

It also has a tendency to die in patches, leaving brown again. Ugly
while it lasts, but if you pull out the brown, the green will close
in again in a few weeks.

I like the smell, but a lot of people find it cloying.  On the other
hand, you only smell it if you walk on it or cut it.

I tried mowing it a couple of weeks ago, with our rotary mower. Only a
partial success.  Our mower, which is probably dull, though sharp
enough for the weeds out back, tends to pull up  some of the camomile
clumps, instead of cutting them cleanly.

All in all, I'll use it again, but be aware of the drawbacks before you
embrace it.  It's a walkable ground-cover with a pleasant color that
is nowhere near as thirsty as grass. Oh, it doesn't do well in medium
to heavy shade.  And bees love the flowers, so if you don't want a
lot of bees (I love them), don't plant a lot of chamomile.

-----
From: Kate Borley <[e-mail]>
Re: Chamomile lawns: I saw a chamomile seat in the Cambridge University
Botanical Gardens, it was a stone base with chamomile growing on the
top in a wooden box and a wooden chair back. Apparently the
Elizabethians invented these seats which they liked because a pleasing
smell is given off by the crushed chamomile when the seat is used.

HeK comment: Now I'd like to know how they kept their behinds dry after
watering the chamomile... (biig grin)

=====
2.7.3  Using / preserving Chamomile

----- tea:
From: [e-mail] (Jeffrey Clayton)
For tea, use the blossoms only.  Harvest when they are in full bloom.

----- hair rinse:
> I've been told that a chamomile infusion used in the hair will bring
  out highlights.  Does anyone have a recipe for this?  Thanks!

From: [e-mail] (Graham Sorenson)
Two methods come to mind immediatly.
One is to get some chamomile tea (loose or bags) and make a strong
  infusion. Or about five drops of Chamomile essential oil in a bowl of
  water. Then rinse hair with the result leaving for a while before
  rinsing out.

From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)
  Chamomile Tea - very strong - is a wonderful hair rinse for shine and
  a glint of sunlight.

From: Annette
>.. seeking chamomile recipe for lightening hair..
I'm Annette using another person's number but I thought I'd respond to
  your question.  Basically, just make a good strong tea with chamomile
  and put into a pout where you can stick your head in. Let tea cool for
  awhile and then stick your head in (can you read upside down?) and
  stay for 5-10 minutes, do weekly and hopefully you will see lightening.

=====
2.7.4  Which chamomile do you have?
-----

From: [e-mail] (Anne E. Comer)
The German chamomile, Matricaria recutita is an annual and will reseed
  itself.  Obviously this means that it flowers.  It is probably the
  best kind if you want to harvest the flowers for tea.
Roman Chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile, is perennial, probably the most
  used form for lawns also flowers.
English Chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague', is non-flowering and
  is very good for lawns and pathways but it must be grown from cuttings
  as there is no  flower, thus no seed.
All three kinds are available from Richters.

==========

2.8 Coriander/Cilantro

-----
Latin name: Coriandrum sativum

=====
2.8.1  Growing coriander/cilantro
-----

>I've read that the best way to deal with bolting is to do several
  plantings over a season.

From: [e-mail] (Dave Platt)
I would agree.
Start a few cilantro plants each month, harvest the leaves before they
  bolt, and then sacrifice most of the plants before they flower.
  Leave a few to flower and set seed - the flowers are very attractive
  to ladybugs, green lacewings, and other benficial (predatory) insects.
I've found that having a few cilantro plants flowering around the
  garden provides an excellent defense against aphids.

-----
> Does anyone know what conditions I should avoid to keep the cilantro
  from going to seed?

From: ?:
- If you plant the stuff really close together you'll probably get less
  bolting.

From: [e-mail] (Elizabeth Platt):
  Don't let it get too hot--like lettuce, it's sensitive to heat.  But,
  cilantro is an annual, so most pros advise planting several batches
  in succession, so that there's always some that isn't going to seed.
By the way, if you've gotten far along enough to worry about it going
  to seed, congratulations.  All my cilantro is devoured, pronto, by
  the slugs and snails as soon as the first tiny leaves appear.
  Tastiest seedlings in the garden....

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
  To avoid bolting, the hotter the weather the more it should be in the
  shade.  There are also varieties that are designed to produce leaves
  and some designed to produce seeds.

=====
2.8.2  Harvesting coriander / cilantro
-----

From: [e-mail] (Dave Platt)
In my experience, the best leaves are the dense, wide ones which grow
  close to the ground.  Once the plant begins to even _think_ about
  flowering, it throws up a vertical stalk, and starts putting out
  leaves which are much thinner and lacier.  These leaves aren't
  anywhere near as tasty as the early foliage.
I've heard some people compare the taste of cilantro to Lifebuoy soap.
  To my taste-buds, the thin upper foliage _does_ somewhat resemble
  Lifebuoy, and I don't like it at all.  The denser low-growing early
  foliage, on the other hand, is utterly wonderful.

-----
> OK, my cilantro bolted!  Am I going to have to hand pick each of the
  little seeds to restock my coriander spice bottle or does someone
  have an easier way?

From: [e-mail] (sonny hays-eberts):
Take a brown paper bag, and place the seed 'umbrella' inside. shake
  heartily. Repeat for each 'umbrella'. This method is useful to
  harvest some seed, and keep the rest for hopeful volunteer plants.
For an even easier method, harvest the plant, then beat against the
  side of a clean trashcan. Most seeds should fall to the bottom.
  you'll need to clean it a bit, but it's lot easier than hand-
  picking. This methos of course, harvests *all* the seed, as opposed
  to number 1.

From: [e-mail] (Rudy Taraschi):
The way I do it is to dry the entire plant, seeds and all. I then get a
  large paper shopping bag, hold the dried plant by the stem and thrash
  it around in the bag. Most of the seeds usually fall off if the plant
  is dry enough.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Even better than a paper bag is the feet of panty hose that you or your
  SO has decided are too far gone to wear any more.  They are great for
  putting over dill and cilantro stems to catch the seed.  Just put the
  toe where the seed head is and a twist tie around the shin part where
  it is over the stem and you will catch almost every seed.

=====
2.8.3  Using / preserving cilantro / coriander
-----
From: [e-mail] (Susan L. Nielsen)
  Not exactly on the matter of etymology, but as to the flavor of
  cilantro/coriander leaves, Julia Child has said, [pitch voice
  appropriately high in the head]: "I just can't stand it.  It tastes
  like dirt."  Other interpretations invoke soap.  I find it quite
  fresh in flavor, and even take it straight off the plant in the
  garden.  Of course, I nibble a lot of things as I dig, but cilantro
  is definitely one I enjoy.  No accounting for taste.

From: [e-mail] (Nancy Moote)
  Cilantro goes to seed very quickly. You can eat the flowers, though.
  They taste like the leaves but lighter and sweeter. Or let them
  develop seed for baking, pickling, curries, and planting next year.
They grow so fast that you can plant seeds now for more leaf cilantro
  later this summer. Next year maybe try planting a few seeds every 2
  weeks for a continuous supply.

=====
2.8.4  Which coriander / cilantro do you have?
-----
From: [e-mail] (Dave Platt)
There's the "slow-bolting" or "leaf" cilantro, and the coriander -
  they're the same species, but they're different strains selected for
  different growth characteristics.  Leaf cilantro grows more of the low,
  dense foliage, and it's not as eager to bolt to seed as is commercial
  seed-coriander stock.

==========

2.9 The mints

-----
Latin names: The mints:  Mentha sp.
             Peppermint: Mentha x piperita (Mentha aquatica x M.spicata)
             Spearmint:  Mentha x spicata (Mentha longifolia x M.suaveolens)
             Pennyroyal: Mentha pulegium
These might not be up to date as botanists make a hobby out of changing
latin names for Mentha genera.

=====
2.9.1  Growing mint
-----
From: [e-mail] (SkiFast123)
  When you move spearmint, trust me and only transplant it into a
  container of some sort.  You can bury the container if you want.
  Good containers to use are those big multi-gallon types that roses
  come in. Bury it right up to the rim.  Otherwise, in a few yrs, you
  will have only one herb in your garden and that is mint because it is
  VERY invasive.

From: Gary & Jeanne Ross <[e-mail]>
Spearmint will keep spreading unless you start pulling some of it out
  by the roots. We however have let it and several other mints spread
  thruout the lawn. It smells so great when you walk across it.

=====
2.9.3  Using / preserving mints
-----
>I've got way too much peppermint / mint / spearmint ...:

From: [e-mail] (Susan Hattie Steinsapir)
  Make a simple sugar syrup and add a whole lot of fresh mint to it. Use
  this when making granita or to sweeten sun tea.  Lemonade made with
  the mint syrup would be nice, too.
I like to make iced tea heavily minted.  Steep a whole lot of mint with
  the tea bags.  Or better yet, boil them with the tea water, then add
  the tea and steep.  Discard the leaves.
Make cold asian type noodle salads with finely chopped mint added.  I
  use mint to line a bowl in which I'm serving fresh whole
  strawberries.  Don't see why you couldn't use them to line a bowl in
  which a fruit salad will be served.  Melon salad would be nice.
Some middle eastern dishes call for lamb and mint.  Ground lamb and
  finely chopped fresh mint (and a few other goodies) would make
  interesting meat balls.
Use it in flower arrangements.  I've put rosemary branches and mint
  leaves together when I wanted something but hadn't picked up any
  fresh flowers.
Give it away to your friends!

From: [e-mail] (Leslie Basel)
  You also might want to preserve it in vodka or aquavit...

From: [e-mail] (Amy Snell)
  Boil a handfull of peppermint leaves in a pot of water, strain it, add
  sugar and serve over ice ... wonderful peppermint drink -- tastes a
  lot like candy canes, but very summery.  Also good hot.  Leftovers
  can be frozen in an ice cube tray and popped into iced tea to make it
  minty.

From: [e-mail] (Tom Havey):
Pesto.....a bunch of peppermint leaves, some peppermint or walnut oil,
  a bit of sugar, all whipped up in a food processor.
Dried, put in decorative jars for gifts, or mixed in some homemade
  potpourri stuff.
Tea.
Raviolis stuffed with peppermint, pepper and raisins and a bit of goat
  cheese (or cottage cheese) topped with a light and spicy curry sauce.

From: [e-mail] (Libby Goldstein)
Just add it to water or seltzer, crush it a bit and serve over ice.
  It's lovely.

From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)
Mint planted at the kitchen door keeps ants away.

From: [e-mail] (Julia Moravcsik)
You can make tabouleh with the mint.
You can boil water with sugar and dip the leaves in for crystalized mint
  leaves.
You can freeze them for later use.
You can make a sort of pesto by putting them in a blender with some
  oil and then freezing the pesto for later use.
You can put it in fruit salad, chopped fine.
You can chomp on a leaf before you drink water to make the water taste
  better.

From: [e-mail] (Steen Goddik)
One of our friends describe chocolate-covered mint leaves as a great
  "social lubricant" for her 5-year old son.  All the neighbor kids love
  it, and it has made him rather popular.

From: [e-mail] (Susan L. Nielsen)
Tea from spearmint is a pretty usual solution; I find it perkier than
  peppermint.  It also makes a terrific addition to iced tea made
  from regular black tea. We make what is conventionally called sun tea
  by the gallons all year 'round, though without the sun.  Seven
  tea bags (good ol' Lipton's or Red Rose) steeped all day in a gallon
  jug of water will make good tea for icing with or without Sol. Use
  the spearmint fresh, or dry it, or freeze it in baggies.  I also add
  it to raspberry leaf tea (calcium boost) because the raspberry has
  very little flavor of its own.  Straight mint tea is good for bad
  tummies.

From: [e-mail] (Don Wiss)
Looking it up in my Wise Encyclopedia of Cookery I find: candied mint
  leaves, mint butter, mint ice, mint jelly, mint julep, mint mousse,
  mint sauce, mint syrup, mint wafers, and sprigs in the ice tea.

-----
>I need a recipe for a Morrocan dry rub called Tabile.

From: [e-mail] (Alan Woods)
Don't know if this is tabile or not, but it's Moroccan, from Erica
Klein's  _Skinny Spices_:

Moroccan Mint Blend

2 T dried mint leaves
2 T garlic granules or powder
2 T toasted sesame seeds
1/2 T lemon peel
1/2 T onion flakes

She uses this as a rub, as flavor for a yoghurt-based soup, and as the
main ingredient in marinade.

-----
Spicy Mint tea
From: [e-mail]
  6 c Water
  2   Cinnamon sticks
  4   Clove, whole
  4   Allspice, whole
  2 c Mint leaves
  Bring the water, cinnamon, cloves and allspice to a boil.
  Boil for 1 minute.
  Stir in mint leaves.
  Remove from heat and steep for five minutes.
  strain into cups.
From Taste of Home Magazine.

-----
Orange Mint Vinegar
From: [e-mail]
   1 sm Orange; peel; thin spiral - colored portion only
 1/2 c  Mint leaves; fresh
        Vinegar, white
Remove peel (colored portion only) from 1 small orange in a thin
  spiral, and place in a sterilized pint jar. Lightly bruise 1/2
  cup fresh mint leaves, add to jar. Heat apple cider or distilled
  white vinegar to just below the boiling point.  Fill jar with
  vinegar, and cap tightly. Allow to stand 3 to 4 weeks. Strain
  vinegar, discarding peel and mint. Pour vinegar into a clean
  sterilized jar, adding a new sprig of fresh mint, if desired.
  Seal tightly.  Use in dressing for tossed green salads with
  orange and grapefruit sections, or in marinades for chicken or
  lamb chops.

-----
Mint jelly
From [e-mail] (Sheri McRae):
  4 lb. tart apples
  3 cups strong mint water
  2 cups white vinegar
    sugar
To make the mint water, soak a large quantity of mint (about a pound)
in 3 cups boiling water overnight. Next day, chop apples and place in a
pan, and barely cover with water. Cover and simmer about an hour until
apples are soft. Strain. Combine apple juice, mint water, and vinegar
and strain again. Measure and place in a pan, adding cup for cup of
sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to boiling and cook
rapidly until the jelly will set. Bottle and seal. Mint Jelly is good
with meats, especially lamb and is also good on toast, etc.

I haven't tried this recipe but it came from a reliable preserving book
which I have used and like.


=====
2.9.4  Which mint do you have?

Also see the Monarda / Beebalm entry, as this plant is often used like
the mints: 2.24 below.
-----
From: [e-mail] (Conrad Richter)

Mints - Mentha spp.
Seeds -- Do not buy

The best mints cannot be grown from seeds.  They are propagated asexually
either by cuttings or division.  Often seeds are offered in catalogues or
in seed racks, but the plants that grow from these will be inferior rogues
not worth the bother.  The flavour and odour may have some degree of menthol,
but the mix of oils is almost always a disapointment to anyone who has
enjoyed the fresh, clean scents and flavours from a good spearmint or a
good peppermint.

Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) is a natural hybrid, probably between
watermint (M. aquatica) and spearmint (M. spicata).  Its flowers are
sterile and so are incapable of producing true peppermint seeds.  What is
usually sold as "peppermint" seeds is actually a type of spearmint. The
highest and best use of this rogue mint is for medicinal tea, but it is
not nearly as nice as true peppermint.

Even though spearmint flowers are fertile and are capable of producing
seeds, seeds produce disappointing results.  In most cases seeds bought as
"spearmint" will turn out to be the same menthol-smelling variety sold as
"peppermint."

Why does the seed industry continue to sell mint seeds?  For years the
seed industry has had little interest and expertise in herbs.  Herbs
tended to be sidelines that produced profits and as long as people
continued to buy, the industry did not care.  This is true of oregano
and remains true of other herbs as well.

There are some mints, however, that can be grown true from seeds.
Watermint (M. aquatica), applemint (M. suaveolens), corn mint (M. arvensis)
and pennyroyal mint (M. pulegium) all grow from seeds.

But for the beginning herb gardener who just wants one mint for tea and
perhaps one for lamb chops, it is better to get plants.
There are many good quality spearmint strains and hybrids including
English mint, improved spearmint, curled spearmint and the plain Jane,
regular spearmint.  Among the peppermints, the most commonly available
variety is black peppermint (M. x piperita vulgaris), but there are
others, like the new "chocolate mint" which, incidently, some swear
really has a "hint" of chocolate it its aroma profile.

When buying plants beware of the imposter mints grown from seeds. Just
because mint plants are offered for sale in a reputable garden centre
does not mean that the cultivar offered is a good one.  Many large
growers are growing mints from the same rogue seed varieties sold by
the seed industry.  Always let your nose be the judge; and don't be
afraid to squeeze a leaf to allow the scent to escape into the air.

==========

2.10 Feverfew and Pyrethrum

-----
Latin name:
  Feverfew: Tanacetum parthenium (Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium)
  Pyrethrum: Tanacetum cinerariifolium

=====
2.10.1 Growing feverfew - it does not seem to repel bees.

----- on rec.gardens June 1995:
>I bought a feverfew plant today with high hopes of introducing it to
  my herb garden.  Now I have read (of course I couldn't research
  before making my purchase) that bees can't stand the smell of
  feverfew and won't come near a garden with feverfew in it!

From: James Michael Kocher <[e-mail]>
I watched with delight last evening as the bees visited the heavy
  blossoms of my foxglove, which are growing right next to feverfew.
  I have never noticed a lack of bees, and feverfew grows all over my
  garden.

-----
From Rene Burrough <[e-mail]>:

Feverfew is one of my favorite garden herbs, and I let it self seed
gloriously. I came about having it in my garden as a total mistake.  I
thought I was planting an insecticide.  It's not, and I'd like to give you
the benefit of my mistake because Feverfew does not contain pyrethrum --
the organic insecticide.

Certainly feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium (formerly Chrysanthemum
cinerariifolium)) is a good companion plant in a vegetable garden.  Because
of the flat composite head, hover-flies are attracted to it.  Hover-flies
are invaluable for eating the larvae of aphids.  Any kind of aphid.  So
feverfew does provide a way of eliminating insects.

But the actual insecticidal constituents, pyrethrum & cinerin, are found in
Tanacetum cinerariifolium. Obviously, also a member of the Composite family.
It has finely divided, pungent, grey-green leaves.  White daisy flowers with
yellow centers as does feverfew. I don't think T. cinerariifolium has single
& double forms.  Certainly there is not a golden leafed T. cinerariifolium
as there is T. parthenium var. Aureum.

Pyrethrum, Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium, has a local name of Dalmatian
Daisy. The leaf of the pyrethrum gives a feathery feeling to the whole plant
while feverfew has a chunkier look to say nothing of seriously lobed, with
scalloped edged leaves.

The leaves of Tanacetum cinerariifolium are concentrated closer to the
ground -- giving a yarrowy kind of look to the base of the herb;  while
feverfew's leaves provide a bushier effect, and thus the flower heads
themselves seem to be more part of the plant than above it as with the
pyrethrum

In the UK it is illegal to make homemade insecticides.  In theory one could
extract the juice from the plant to make an insecticidal spray. Legally, one
can buy the powder which is mixed with water to form a spray; some folk
believe it should first be mixed with alcohol and then diluted with water to
activate the active principles of pyrethrum & cinerin. And some pyrethrum
powders are sold in plastic puffer bottles so that a plant can be dusted
with the dry powder.

=====
2.10.3 Using / preserving Feverfew
-----
Have a look at the migraine / feverfew entries in the medicinal
herbfaq.

==========

2.11 Tarragon

-----
Latin name: Artemisia dracunculus.

=====
2.11.1  Growing tarragon
-----
From: [e-mail] (Rick Giese)
... can't grow tarragon in East Texas...
Texas in summer is probably too hot for French Tarragon.  You might
  experiment with a fall planting.  French Tarragon is the preferred
  type for cooking, and will not grow from seed.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
French Tarragon may not be frost hardy in Finland, but in milder
climes, particularly with a bit of mulch, it should be. It can also be
potted for the winter. It likes full sun (though again, I'm not in
Texas, so I can't say fo there). Give it any sort of reasonable soil
(it's not overly picky). The major growing tip is to divide it
frequently (every 2-3 years), or it becomes rootbound.  So keep giving
plants away to your friends once you have enough for your own use...

=====
2.11.2 Harvesting tarragon
-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
While it's growing, the best bet is to just harvest fresh whatever you
need for today by picking off leaves or tips of branches with multiple
leaves.
For collecting a lot (drying, vinegar, etc) you can cut back all the
branches by about 2/3rds, whereupon you should leave them for 8 weeks
before doing so again, supposedly. Personally, I only do a major
cutback of this sort when clearing out before frost, so the time
between cuttings is just what some book said, not experience.

=====
2.11.3  Using / preserving tarragon
-----
From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Tarragon pesto with pecans is a pretty good way to save it.

-----
From: HeK
Vinegar recipe, anyone? That IS the classic way to preserve tarragon.
You can also dry it or freeze it or freeze it in oil.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
Vinegar recipe, if you like. Clean/sterilize a canning jar. Stuff with
Tarragon. heat white vinegar (or wine vinegar) to/near boiling. Pour
into jar, seal, put in dark place. Strain off into another jar at a
date depending on your tarragon taste tolerance - 2-6 weeks, or leave
it until used. Adjust amount stuffed & time to taste. A canning jar is
used primarily to reduce the likelihood of the jar cracking when boiling
vinegar is poured into it.

Tarragon dries well - ideally, hang the branches in a dark warm place
(such as an attic, or in a paper bag), and then collect the leaves into
a jar for storage when dry. It freezes alone with a lack of fuss that
suggests that freezing in oil is probably not worth the bother. You can
also make up a flavored oil in a similar fashion to the vinegar recipe,
though boiling the oil would not be a good idea...(warming it a bit
might help).

=====
2.11.4  Which tarragon do you have?
-----
From: HeK
There are 2 kinds of true tarragon: Artemisia dracunculus var.sativa
(French tarragon) and Artemisia dracunculus var.inodora (Russian
tarragon). The French tarragon cannot be grown from seed, it's taste
is finer but it isn't frosthardy. The Russian tarragon can be grown
from seed, it's taste isn't so good but it will survive outdoors in
Finland.

Then there are the Mexican mint marigold and things like that, which are
used like tarragon. Anyone know the latin names?

==========

2.12 Nasturtiums

-----
Latin name: Tropaeolum majus.

=====
2.12.1 Growing Nasturtiums
-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
Not fussy for "growing at all", but do respond well to rich, loose,
well-drained soil & compost, plus regular watering, for growing nice
large plants. Differences with the same variety on different spots have
been dramatic (plants & leaves 2-3 times larger on good spots).
Hummingbirds like the flowers.

-----
From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
If they get aphids - usually after midsummer in zone 5 - simply spray
with a dilute soap.  Any kind will work. Then rinse the leaves well
before use.

From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith) to above:
Never had much trouble from insects - have had some aphids, had some
aphid damage, but it never amounted to anything worth bothering to
control. Most bugs don't find nasturtiums _that_ appealing.

======
2.12.2  Harvesting nasturtiums
-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
I've had good results just picking leaves & flowers as needed for salad
- once established, they produce right up until frost. You probably
shouldn't harvest more than about 1/3 of the leaves from plants you
intend to keep harvesting from.

=====
2.12.3  Using / preserving nasturtiums
-----
From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
Nasturtium leaf is wonderful in salad.  Slightly bitter but refreshing.
I don't think it preserves very well and should only be used fresh.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
Any sort of cress-ish or lettuce-ish use - they are a bit hot like
cress. The flowers are edible as well, and make a nice garnish. Large
leaves from plants in rich plots can be used for lettuce-like purposes
in sandwiches (or hamburgers) - the smaller ones tend to slip out
annoyingly. Flowers do well both in salads, and floating on cold soups.
If you like nasturtiums, you can make them the bulk of a salad, with no
need for other greens. Great for just eating in the garden. Have not
tried preserving - I suppose you could blend up some nasturtium mush
and freeze it for use in soup, but it's basically a fresh thing.

-----
>...toss in a few nasturtium pods for false capers.
So are these before the bloom -- the buds? Or after the bloom -- seed
  pods? Do you preserve them?

-----
From: [e-mail] (Susan L. Nielsen)
Pickled Nasturtium Pods or Seeds

After the blossoms fall, pick off the half-ripened Nasturtium seed pods.
Continue as your crop develops to drop them into a boiled and strained
mixture of:

 1 quart white wine vinegar
 2 teaspoons Pickling Salt
 1 thinly sliced onion
 1/2 teaspoon each allspice, mace and celery seed
 3 peppercorns

Keep refrigerated and use as a variation for capers.

Taken from 'The Joy of Cooking', Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer
Becker, Bobbs-Merrill Co., Inc., New York, 1975.

=====
2.12.4 What kinds of nasturtium are there?
-----
From: [e-mail] (Lawrence H Smith):
There's your basic nasturtium with green leaves & red & yellow & orange
flowers, the same but with varigated leaves, and a variety with all red
flowers and a "more compact" growth habit (cherry flowered, I think
it's called). I think there is also a climbing variety, but I don't
have any of those.

==========

2.13 Dill

-----
Latin name: Anethum graveolens.

=====
2.13.1  Growing dill
-----
From: [e-mail] (Kenneth Nilsson)
Here in Sweden dill is the most common herb and there are always
discussions on why it is so difficult to grow. It always (?) dies
when about 3" high and the 'story' here has it that dill is very
susceptible to a root fungus. - By the way, you say "transplanted"
dill into your garden. Does that mean you sow it indoors and plant it
out? - The only solution for ME has been to sow/spread out the seeds
from the mature dill flowers in fall. I take some mature stalks of
dill and walk around the garden shaking them and I have beautiful
dill BUT all over the garden. They just won't grow where I want them
to - in nice rows - THERE! It seems as if the seeds that end up in
non-infected soil thrive whereas the others simply don't make it. If
you don't find that untidy, it's worth a try. I guess you can spread
the seeds in early spring too.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
First, there are many different dills.  The best approach I have found
is to find a dill that that survives the winter wherever you are.
Then, it is one tuned to the environment and will grow better.  It
will also self seed, both where you want it :-) and where you don't
:-( or :-) depending.  It is perfectly acceptable to seed them very
close together.
It is also a good idea to succession plant dill if you want a
continuous supply of it all growing season long.

=====
2.13.2  Harvesting dill
-----
From: [e-mail] (Susan D. Hill):
Dill can be harvested for leaves any time during the growing season. If
  you're growing for seeds, wait until the flowers die off and the
  seeds are set, then tie little socks around the seed heads. You can
  use nylon net, cheesecloth or even old stockings. Any fabric that is
  porous. Be sure to tie them on loosely so as not to damage the stem.
  Once the seeds are dry, just cut off the stalk and take it inside.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
To harvest, assuming they are planted very close together, cut the
  plants off at their base that are the biggest.  Then, let the
  remaining plants, which will be more properly spaced, grow larger
  until they are crowding themselves and pick them.  Then repeat the
  process until they are all properly spaced and then pick the fronds
  as quickly as they reach their size because they are preparing to go
  to seed by then.  I pick every frond while the plants are going to
  seed and it does not seem to affect the seed production at all and I
  get more dill fronds that way :-).
To harvest the seeds, take a pair of panty hose past the wearing stage
  and cut them off mid-thigh or mid-calf depending on your preference.
  Put the seed head, when it is still green, into the foot of the panty
  hose and the leg over the stem.  Tie a twist tie around the panty
  hose on the stem and wait until the seeds are fully developed and
  quite dry.  Then cut off the stem below the twist tie, bring it into
  the house or somewhere else out of the wind and put it over a big
  piece of paper.  The seed will pretty much fall off the head as it is
  dry enough.  Don't forget to shake the seed out of the panty hose leg
  too :-).

==========
2.13.3  Using / preserving dill
-----
From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)
I always cut some heads with ~almost~ mature seeds to add to my garlic
dill half-sour jars.  Adds extra flavour, and looks so pretty against
one side of the jar.

-----
From: [e-mail]
The dill is an aromatic European plant that belongs to the parsley
family, and it bears yellow blossoms that turn into tiny fruits or
seeds. The pungent leaves and seeds of the plants are used as
condiments and as pickling agents. Dill is derived from the Norse
"dilla", meaning to lull, and was formerly given to infants as a
soporific.

Dill seeds have a rather acrid taste, and they serve to stimulate the
appetite. The odor of dill is stronger and less agreeable than that of
fennel. The two are closely related but they are not identical. However
dill that is found growing wild in the United States, is popularly
called fennel.

Dill is used primarly to pickle cucumbers, but it should be used more
extrensively as a seasoning. Its finely chopped fresh leaves add their
fragrance to potatoes, stews, fish, cucumbers, vegetables salads, and
broiled meats. Dill seeds will render cabbage, cauliflower, meat
gravies, spaghetti sauces, fish sauces, turnips, sauerkraut, and soups
(espically bean and borscht) more appetizing. Add a dash of dill to
tomatoe sauce, or try using dill and celery in stewed tomatoes. Dill
seeds resemble caraway seeds in flavor, and the two may be used
interchangeably.

Dill Pickles:

Carefully select and wash good cucumbers, about 5-6 inches long. Pack
them in earthernware jars. Between the layers of cucumbers, place thin
layers of dill, using stalks, leaves, and seed balls. Cover with brine
[using about 1 lb of salt to 3 pints of water]. Place a layer of grape
or horseradish leaves on top, weight down with a large earthen plate.
Let stand several weeks before using.

Source : the American Dictionary of Cooking, 1938 Ed. I can't tell you
the publisher as the pages were torn years ago. My Grandmother gave the
book the day I married..it has been like a Bible for me.

-----
From: [e-mail]

Friss Kaporleves (Fresh Dill Soup)

2 tb Butter, unsalted,
1 tb Flour, all-purpose
2 tb Dill; minced
4 c  Water; cold
Salt
1/2 c  Sour cream
1 tb Lemon juice

Make a roux with the butter and flour. Cook it until golden brown. Add
dill, stir well, immediately pour in 1/2 cup cold water and whip until
smooth. Add 3-1/2 cups water and salt to taste. Cook soup for about
10 minutes.
Mix sour cream with lemon juice and put in the soup tureen. Eliminate
lemon juice if the soup is too sour for your taste. Pour the soup over.
Serve with Potato Dumplings (recipe). Cook these dumplings in the fresh
dill soup for 5 minutes.
Yield: 6 servings

==========

2.14 Rosemary

-----
Latin name: Rosmarinus officinalis.

=====
2.14.1  Growing Rosemary
-----

By [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)

This is an herb you can literally kill with kindness!  Rosemary will
die if you fertilize her, or water her too much, or plant her in too-
rich earth.  Benign neglect will result in big healthy plants.  There
are two basic types of Rosemary, the trailing or protstrate type, and
a bush type that will, in time, become large enought to be considered
a shrub.  These plants have been used in England in mazes, and in the
USA as landscape plantings.  Prostrate Rosemary is an excellent
ground cover.

Rosemary comes in various shades of blue-lavendar, and there is a
pink version that is a magnet for bees (as is the blue).  The leaves
are like miniature pine needles, in a lovely blue-green colour.

Rosmarinus, the herb's Latin name, means "sea spray",  and the plant
grows especially well near the ocean.

=====
2.14.2  Harvesting Rosemary
-----

By [e-mail] (Judith Rogow):

I cut my rosemary back all summer and dry it hung in a closet.  This
perfumes my hanging clothing, and keeps it from sunburn.

=====
2.14.3  Using / Preserving Rosemary
-----
By [e-mail] (Judith Rogow):

I use it for poultry stuffing, and as a tea to soothe stress.  Also,
the tea is a wonderful hair rinse for red heads and brunettes.  I
also use the tea in a bath when I ache all over from too much
gardening.

Rosemary may be dried by hanging sprigs in a warm place, then stripping
the leaves and keeping them in a jar or plastic bag. Uses of this
versitile herb include teas (infusions of the leaves) that make
soothing tisanes, enhancing hair rinses, and lovely fragrant soaking
baths.

Leaves are used in cooking and for scented oils, the flowers are often
added to a bride's headdress to insure fidelity.

Rosemary is considered an excellent tonic for headaches, and stomaches.
It is also a traditional memory sharpener.  Shakespeare said in
Hamlet . . . "There's Rosemary, that's for rememberance."  Mourners
in many countries drop sprays of Rosemary in the coffin of a loved
one as a pledge not to forget the person.

-----
RECIPES
-----
From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow)

A decoction for the bath
Steep several handsfull of Rosemary (fresh or dried) in water for an
hour at simmer.  Cool and bottle.  Add to bath for soothing and scent.

2) Rosemary Water
4 TBS Rosemary Flowers
1 Nutmeg, grated
2 TBS Cinnamon, grated
1 QT alcohol spirit (Vodka works well)
Pour liquid over herbs in a clean jar - stand in warm dark place for
two weeks.  Strain through cheesecloth or paper coffee strainer.
Use as you would witch hazel, to soothe aches.

3) Rosemary Wine
1 bottle of white wine
1 handfull fresh rosemary (or 2 TBS dried)
2 TBS dried Borage leaves
Steep herbs in wine a week or more, strain as in #2.  This is an
excellent nerve tonic.

4) Insect repellant candle
Crumble dried Sage and Rosemary leaves, mix with melted wax, form
into candle (an easy way to do this if you don't have candle molds
is to put a votive candle in a bowl, pour warm herb-wax in the bowl
a bit at a time, and let harden) and use to keep bugs away.

-----
From: Ron Lunde <[e-mail]>

Here's my recipe for Rosemary bread that never fails.  (I use fresh
rosemary, from the planter on the side of my house, next to the grape
vine.  Both the rosemary and the grape vine are trying to take over the
universe.  I'm waiting to see which wins.)

Rosemary Bread
(Popular for centuries, as legend goes, particularly in southern
 Europe)

Ingredients:
1 package dry yeast, not too far past the expiration date
1 cup warm water (I stick my finger in it, and it feels "slightly
  warm")
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves (or dried, I guess)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 & 1/4 cups whole wheat flour
1 & 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
Olive oil to grease bowl and baking sheet
1 beaten egg

Destructions:
Fling yeast in water, add sugar.  Let stand until foamy.  If it isn't
foamy, try again.  Should take 5-10 minutes.

Add rosemary, salt, whole wheat flour, and about a cup of the regular
flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until it's all a big lump, with kinda
stretchy qualities around the edges.  Add remaining flour, and turn it
into an even bigger lump.  Turn it out onto a floured surface (not a
cat -- cat's tend to resent that), and knead it far longer than you
actually want to, or about 8 minutes.

Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise for an hour or so in an oiled
bowl, until it's doubled in volume.

Punch down, knead briefly (get rid of air pockets).  Shape into a ball,
and scrunch it around so that the top surface is reasonably smooth.

Put it on a lightly oiled baking sheet.  Brush loaf with oil.  Let rise
for 45 minutes or so, until it's doubled.

Brush it with the egg.  If you're feeling traditional, cut an 'X' in
the top with a very sharp knife.

Bake at 375 degrees (Fahrenheit -- we're not doing plasma physics,
we're baking bread) until the top is brownish, and you can get a nice
hollow sound when you tap the bottom.  That should be 45 minutes, or
so.  Cool on a rack.  Eat.

It's low fat, high fiber/protein/taste.  I like it.

==========

2.15 Lavender

-----
Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia and other Lavandula species.

Also see 3.6 below, 'Growing herbs from cuttings'.

-----
These lavender entries have been compiled by Susan L. Nielsen
([e-mail]). Nice piece of work; thanks!

(copyright, Susan L. Nielsen, 1995)

"Lavender's blue, dilly dilly, lavender's green;
 When I am king, dilly dilly, you shall be queen."
'Lavender's Blue', from _Mother Goose's Melody_ (Anon.), 1781.

=====
2.15.1  Growing Lavender
-----
by Susan L. Nielsen

Among native plants of the Mediterranean, Lavender must surely be one
of the most adaptable of these sun and warmth-loving plants.  It
thrives from its indigenous lands as far north and south as hardy
perennials will grow.  It is grown commercially in Australia, as well
as in the more familiar lavender fields of England and France.  It
will grow even as far north as Norway, though perhaps not _very_ far
north once there.

Lavender is happiest in light, well-drained soils, in a somewhat lean
loam.  By lean, I mean a soil not too rich in nitrogen; lavender,
like many plants, will gladly imbibe the nitrogen, and then send this
nourishment into healthy leaf growth.  In general, we prefer to
cultivate lavender for its blooms (the leaves are useful, but the
blooming plant will, after all, have leaves enough for most purposes
I can imagine).  Drainage is at least as important as soil content.
I don't recommend planting lavender in gravel, but gravel would be
preferable to a clay bed.  A sandy loam is ideal.  "Just dirt" is
probably fine as long as it will crumble in the hand.  Clean wood ash
is a helpful addition to the soil.

Lavender likes the sun.  Unlike human beings, it is made to flourish
under UV rays (after all, ultraviolet and ultralavender aren't _that_
far apart).

So, give it sun, give it drainage, water it sometimes, and enjoy its
heady, sweet abundance.

Lavender may be propagated by seed, though I would suspect the ability
of some of the cultivars to produce, from seed, plants true to the
characteristics of the parent.

It may also be easily propagated from cuttings.  This is the way most
commercial stock is reproduced.  In the spring or fall, take cuttings
from new growth.  You want small stems, pulled with a "heel" from the
larger branch (pull quickly downward from the angle of the stem, and
the "cutting" will detach with the desired tissue forming the heel).
Dust with rooting hormone if available.  Set the cuttings into sand
or soil.

Don't, by the way, believe the words on a package of "sterile" soil
mix; treat it to half an hour in a _low_ heat oven (about 65 C
degrees or 150 F, if you can set it that low).  Use a shallow pan so
that the soil can heat uniformly; it is very insulating and, if piled
up, the inside can still be quite cool when the outside is hot to
touch.  Make certain it is cooled again before you use it.  When you
are using packaged soil for rooting or seeding, you will save
yourself complications with damping off and other fungal diseases by
ritually observing this practice.

Tend the plants gently, and keep them moist, and when they have rooted,
(new top growth is a good sign) pot them into larger containers and
fertilize them.

In addition, lavenders will layer well in the garden; buried stems will
root along their length and can then be dug up, separated from the
parent, and replanted on their own.

=====
2.15.2  Harvesting Lavender
-----
by Susan L. Nielsen

Lavender flowers should be harvested just before the blooms open.  The
flowers will look like fat, purple seeds on a stem.  If you miss and
must cut them later, be prepared for the flowers to fall off the stems.
For culinary purposes, it may not be so important that you have
perfectly preserved stems of lavender, but they probably loose some of
their intensity of aroma as they mature on the plant.

All the herbals say that the aromatic powers of herbs are strongest
when the plant has not yet opened to full bloom (true of most all the
blooming herbs), and to cut herbs "in the morning when the plants are
perfectly dry."  I have never been able to achieve the match between
morning hours and dryness at this pre-bloom season, though I suppose it
depends on the dews and the rains where the garden grows. The dryness
is probably more important than the morning hour.

Cut the lavender stems as long as you are able.  Doubtless some of your
harvest will be used for gifts or crafts. The long stems are most
lovely.  They also increase the possibilities available to you (you
cannot make lavender bottles with short stems).

=====
2.15.3  Using/Preserving Lavender
-----
by Susan L. Nielsen

Do not dry your herbs in the sun.  "Dry them quickly," say the books,
but direct sun will cause them to fade, both in color and in intensity.
You can spread them out flat to dry if you have unlimited table space.
Or tie them in bundles and hang them upside down.  "In a closet," say
the wise authors.  Ha-ha.  Show me a closet with room for bundles of
herbs to hang undamaged.  I hang mine from curtain rods, but I have a
window onto a vestibule where no sun strikes.  Hang them from hooks or
nails or thumb tacks.  I know it is terribly quaint, but don't leave
them there all summer, fall and winter.  They will gather dust, and
they will lose potency in time.  Once they are thoroughly dry, store
them someplace more sheltered, though less scenic.

Rosetta Clarkson (in _Herbs and Savory Seeds_, Dover Publications,
1972) reminds us that, "To retain the full flavor and fragrance [of
lavender and of other herbs to be used for cooking] you must store the
herbs in containers, preferably glass or pottery with tightly fitting
covers." Otherwise, "the oils will in time escape."  Good advice for
all herbs saved, though not too good for long stems.  Try wrapping them
in tissue paper and keeping them in a carton, drawer or chest.  When
storing freshly dried herbs in closed containers, you will do well to
check them during the first weeks for signs of mildew.  Turn them out
now and then, spread the herbs loosely, sniff them, touch them, look
closely.  If all is well, re-pack them.

For culinary use, all experts agree (!) that lavender is strong.  Use a
light hand.

-----
THE RECIPES
-----
By Susan L. Nielsen

Beginning with the most simple:

Lavender Tea
About 3 tablespoons fresh flowers (half this amount for dried ones)
steeped 3-5 minutes in a pint of water just off the boil.  This has a
pale straw color but is plenty aromatic.  You might try combining the
lavender with mint leaves, too.

Lavender Vinegar
Use distilled white vinegar.  Flavored vinegars and stronger ones will
compete with the herb for your senses.  Place "some" (say, a small
handful) in a modicum (say, a pint) of vinegar.  Let stand 4-6 weeks.
Use it as a dressing for fruit salads.

Even simpler: a few lavender leaves, washed, scattered into a garden
salad add what the authors of _Joy of Cooking_ (Irma S. Rombauer and
Marion Rombauer Becker) call a "bitter pungency."  In the US recently,
"bitter pungency" in the form of raddichio commands a handsome price in
the market, so let not this opportunity pass!

Lavender Martini
(I have not myself tried this, but I promise to, soon)
"Make your martini with your favorite proportions.  Use a small sprig
of lavender as the garnish.  The oil of lavender is quickly but subtly
released by the alcohol..."
(from _The Forgotten Art of Flower Cookery_, Leona Woodring Smith,
Harper & Row, 1973).

Lavender Fruit Salad
Choose your favorite seasonal fresh fruits (no canned fruit cocktail
here).  Peel them as appropriate, reduce to bite-sized pieces.  Combine
them in a bowl with 10 or so sprigs of fresh lavender (remember: much
less for dried).  Let it all chill for a couple of hours.  Serve it
with a good splash of champagne over the top and lavender pretties in
the bowl.  Another version of this steeps the salad in a quarter cup of
Grand Marnier, then follows with the champagne at serving.

Lavender Jelly
(Also from _The Forgotten Art of Flower Cookery_)
  2 1/4 cups bottled apple juice [I would assume that this requires a
        clear juice for a clear jelly]
  1 cup lavender flowers
  3 1/2 cups sugar
  1/2 bottle (4 oz.) liquid pectin
Place apple juice and lavender in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
  Cover and remove from the heat.  Let stand for 15 minutes and strain.
  Return 2 cups of this juice to the heat, add the sugar, and stirring
  constantly, bring to a full boil.  Stir in the liquid pectin and
  bring to a rolling boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
Remove from the heat, skim off the foam, and pour into jelly glasses
  with a sprig of jelly in each glass [and seal]. (Makes about 5 medium
  glasses.)

Lavender Apple Crisp
Add about a tablespoon of fresh (half that if dried) lavender to your
favorite apple crisp or deep dish pie recipe.

and, by no means least:

Lavender Ice Cream (from _At Home with Herbs_, Jane Newdick, Storey
Communicaltions, 1994, changed a bit)
   4 egg yolks
 3/4 cups sugar
 2/3 cup half-and-half [half cream, half milk]
   6 fresh lavender flower heads
 2/3 cup whipping cream or heavy cream
   2 cups of milk
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until light and foaming.  Gently
heat the half-and-half in a pan with the lavender flowers.  Bring to the
boil, then strain into the egg yolk mixture.  Return the mixture to the
stove and cook over very low heat, stirring constantly until it is
slightly thickened and will coat the back of a spoon.  Do not let it
boil.  Pour the custard into a bowl, and refrigerate until it is
completely cold. Whip the cream just until it forms peaks and fold it
into the cold custard.  Add remaining 2 cups of milk.  Process in an ice
cream maker, or freeze in the container in the freezer compartment of the
refrigerator.  Serve with thin, crisp cookies.

[O', I do say...]

Now, I know this last is not a culinary item, but I've been very good
about leaving out the 4,012 craft uses of lavender I could have
mentioned, and I did bring these up earlier, so indulge me:

Lavender bottles
Lavender bottles are a very old little whimsey.  You must use freshly
  cut lavender.  Once it has dried, the stems will break as you try to
  bend them, and your bottles will fall apart before they are made.
Use a goodly bunch of lavender, 15 to 20 stems with flower heads.  Also
  have on hand some strong thread.
Neatly bunch the lavender and tie the stems together just below the
  flower heads.  Wrap the thread several times around the stems to make
  a strong band.  Trim the thread ends.
One stem at a time, bend the stems over the flower heads. Work around
  the bundle, carefully.  The stems will form a kind of cage over the
  flowers.  As the lavender dries, the stems will shrink some, and the
  "bottle" will be more open.
When all the stems are bent over the flowers, tie them again at the
  point just below the flower heads.  Your earlier tie will be
  obscured.  Tie the bottoms of the stems together, too.  Tie tightly,
  because the stems _will_ shrink.  You can tie narrow ribbons over the
  strings to make things prettier.

=====
2.15.4  Which Lavender do you have?
-----
By Susan L. Nielsen

"Oh, call it by some better name..."  -- Thomas Moore

The _Oxford Dictionary of English Etymology_ (C.T. Onions) considers
that the English word "lavender" derives, through a painful series of
transcriptions, from the Latin *lavare* (to lave, to wash), though
Professor Onions comments that, if this is so, "the sense-development
is obscure."  Perhaps he was unfamiliar with lavender-scented baths.

*Lavandula* varieties are many, and the manifold literature does not
come to any tidy agreement on the number of lavender species.  At last
I went to _Hortus Third_ to settle the matter.  While this is
specifically a North American reference, I do not believe there can be
too many examples of this herb not now grown somewhere in N. America.
The following is a fairly tedious list but, because of the large number
of names under which lavender is sold, I have listed the subspecies and
cultivar names (forgive me, but I have omitted the convention of italic
markers for genus, species and variety names; cultivars are in single
quotes).  The list is somewhat abbreviated.  All names not listed are
judged, "without botanical standing.":

L. angustifolia: ENGLISH L. (synonyms = L. delphinensis, L.
  officinalis, L. Spica, L. angustifolia, L. pyrenaica, L. vera).
  Cultivars = 'Alba', 'Atropurpurea', 'Compacta', 'Dutch', 'Fragrance',
    'Hidcote', 'Munstead', 'Nana', 'Rosea', 'Twickel Purple',
    'Waltham'.
L. dentata: FRENCH L. (also, previously, sometimes referred to as L.
    delphinensis). Var. candicans.
L. lanata: (plants offered under this name may sometimes be
    angustifolia).
L. latifolia
L. multifida: (synonym = canariensis)
L. pinnata: Var. Buchii.
L. Stoechas: SPANISH L., FRENCH L. (synonym = pedunculata).

Some folklore:  Three of the above names are interesting in history.

*L. Spica* (spike Lavender [who says Latin is tough?]), shows in its
name the earlier use of the term "Spike" to refer to lavender (as,
Culpeper's Oil of Spike).  The Greeks called this plant, 'Nardus.'
Bible readers will here recognize the name Spikenard:  "While the king
sitteth at his table, my spikenard sendeth forth the smell thereof."
said the dark, passionate lover in "The Song of Solomon" (1:12), and
"Thy plants are an orchard of pomegranates, with pleasant fruits;
camphire, with spikenard, spikenard and saffron, calamus and
cinnamon..." (4:13,14).

*L. vera* (English Lavender), is also called "true" Lavender, and *L.
stoechas*, French Lavender.  Obviously there is room for a cross-
Channel rivalry here.  The English Lavender claims to possess the
finest, true lavender scent: *vera*.  In fact, it is the basis of the
huge commercial market in lavender.  French Lavender, on the other
hand, (according to dear Mrs. Grieve, _A Modern Herbal_, 1931,
reproduced by Dover Publications, 1971), is "probably the lavender so
extensively used in classical times by the Romans and Libyans as a
perfume for the bath."  This is a fairly distinguished citation, which
endures despite the fact that its aroma is judged by some to be
"musty," by others "musky" (a distinction one might have thought more
clear), and, by the more discriminating, "like a cross between lavender
and rosemary."

So, among these worthies, the question remains, which do you have?  Or
even, which do you want to have?

The above list should help if you have purchased lavender with a
nursery tag in the pot and are unsure where you stand among the
synonyms.

If you have no lavenders, or wish to increase your holdings, and are
looking for guidance, you might consider the attributes you most seek.
If you are very involved in processing, and want to extract oils, for
instance, you might choose the larger-leaved Spike varieties for a
greater yield of oil.  Be forewarned, however, that oil extraction
requires _enormous_ quantities of material for a start.

If you live in a harsh, cold-winter area, the hardier L. angustifolia
(vera) might be your best choice.

For deck or terrace edging, parterres, or walkway borders try the
smaller varieties: Hidcote, or Munstead, for example.

If your lavender has wooly white foliage, in a mound of about 12"
height, and blooms late in the season on towering stems topping at 3'
or so, you probably have L. lanata.  Its scent will be similar to that
of L. angustifolia.

The L. pinnata and L. multifida cultivars have greyish, ferny foliage.

L. dentata has little "teeth" along the edges of the leaves. Its scent
is said to suffer from the same shortcomings as that of the Stoechas
lavenders.

For historical interest, or from the standpoint of a collector, of
course, one cannot have too many lavenders. And all of them are equal
candidates for inclusion in the garden.

-----
"...we shall find a cleanly room, lavender in the windows,
    and twenty ballads stuck about the wall."
 -- Izaak Walton, _The Compleat Angler_, 1653-1655.

==========

2.16 Lemon balm

-----
Latin name: Melissa officinalis.

=====
2.16.1  Growing Lemon balm
-----
From: [e-mail] (JR Schroeder)
Lemon Balm, _Melissa_officinalis_, is a hardy perennial member of the
  mint family (Lamiaceae).  I've found it easy to propagate from seed or
  by dividing the clump in spring or late August; cuttings don't seem to
  work well.  A mature plant forms an ordinary-looking rounded clump that's
  about 2' across.  It doesn't spread as rampantly as some of it's
  relatives, although it can become weedy if you let it go to seed (this
  is a good way of getting little plants to share, though :) ).
There is a variegated form, very attractive but less vigorous (it is
  hardy in my Zone 5 winters).  I've found that if you stress this
  form, it reverts to completely green, until it recovers from the stress
  (which may take the rest of the season).  I haven't tried propagating
  this one from seed; it is true from cuttings and divisions.

=====
2.16.3  Using / Preserving Lemon balm
-----
From: [e-mail], Northwind Farm Publications
Someone asked about lemon balm tea: should it be used fresh or dried,
  etc. We are great lovers of lemon balm tea. We grow a patch of it,
  harvesting the leaves all summer for fresh tea. In the fall, we
  gather the crop and air-dry it for winter. The flavor is different
  depending on whether it is fresh or dried; I prefer the fresh, but
  dried is fine. Bruising the leaves before brewing the tea definitely
  intensifies the flavor.
To prepare the tea, just steep the leaves in boiling water for a few
  minutes. Personal taste will determine the amount to use (don't
  skimp) and the brewing time. Try adding some of your other favorite
  tea ingredients for a little variety. Chamomile and hops make a
  soothing (maybe sedative or soporific for those sensitive to these
  ingredients) combination with the lemon balm.
I have never heard of any toxic effects or contraindications to the use
  of lemon balm. From personal experience, I'd say it's perfectly
  harmless.

==========

2.17 Garlic

-----
Latin name: Allium sativum.

=====
2.17.1  Growing garlic
-----

[e-mail] (John Pedlow)

plant a clove every place you'd like a garlic plant to grow next year.
"Regular" garlic does not get "seed" heads.  rocambole garlic does.
  the "seed" heads are not really seeds but are "bulblets" which may
  be planted and will develop into garlic in a couple of years.  these
  bulblets do have a garlic flavor but i find them a bit bitter compared
  with garlic cloves.
btw, my rocambole is just slightly smaller (head size) than my
  "regular" garlic.  and, i am unable to taste a difference between
  the two varieties.

-----
[e-mail] (Sallee)
The little bulblettes which are formed after the flower are the seeds
  for the garlic plant, but they must be planted in the FALL to make
  big beautiful garlic bulbs the following fall. Actually, the garlic
  knows the best time to plant itself -- when that head dries, it drops
  it's seeds at just the correct planting time.
The garlic also tells you the best harvesting time for the bulbs for
  keeping and eating -- when that gooseneck flower stem unwinds
  fully, the bulbs are fully formed, but have not yet started to petal
  outward. The bulbs are still tightly closed and keep well.
I've grown award winning garlic in Nebraska for years by letting the
  plants tell me when to pick this way.

=====
2.17.3  Using / preserving garlic
-----

From: [e-mail]
Garlic Jelly
    2 T. butter or margarine
       1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled and minced
    3 C. granulated sugar
  1/2 C. apple cider vinegar
   6 oz. liquid pectin
In a large saucepan, combine butter and garlic over medium heat. Cook,
  stirring constantly, until garlic is light golden brown (3 to 4
  minutes).  Add sugar and vinegar.  Cook, stirring constantly, until
  sugar dissolves and mixture comes to a boil.  Stir in pectin.  Boil 1
  minute, stirring constantly.  Remove from heat.  Skim foam from top
  of jelly.  Pour into sterilized jars and seal.  Yield:  about 3 C.
  jelly.

From: Sam Waring <[e-mail]>
Garlic jam
   4    Garlic head, whole (~14 oz)
   1 T  Olive oil, extra-virgin
   1 md Onion; unpeeled & halved lengthwise
        Salt (opt)
Preheat the oven to 350F. Using a large sharp knife, cut off 1/2-inch
  from the top of each head of garlic to expose some of the flesh.
Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over the bottom of a gratin or glass
  pie dish.  Place the garlic and the onion halves cut sides down in
  the dish, cover tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes, until very
  soft to the touch.  Uncover and let cool for 20 minutes.
Peel the onion halves and finely chop them.  Place in a medium bowl.
Squeeze the garlic pulp from the skins into the bowl; discard the
  skins.  Using a fork, stir in the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and mash
  with the onion and garlic until thoroughly incorporated.  Season with
  salt if desired.  (The garlic jam will keep refrigerated in a glass
  jar for up to 2 weeks.)
Makes 1-1/3 cups.
Use this condiment with roasted meats or as a spread for toasted
  croutons or cold meat sandwiches, or try a spoonful of it mixed into
  homemade salad dressings and sauces.
Source: Food & Wine - December, 1993

-----
From: [e-mail] (Susan Hattie Steinsapir)
Garlic bulbs - intact - keep well if given enough air about them.  I
keep a pound or so on hand, ordinarily, in a bowl on the counter.  If
it starts to go bad, usually you'll notice that it's sprouting much as
an onion or potato would.

It's great baked - then squeeze the paste out onto toasted baguettes.
Absolutely *DO NOT* store it in oil.  Doing this can lead to death by
bacterial contamination.

I don't know about freezing it.  I usually use it up before I really
have to consider such a course.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Jerry Ness)
I break up the garlic bulb and peel each clove of garlic. I put all the
cloves of garlic in one of those pint jars with the glass lid, wire
bale and red rubber gasket. I fill the jar with Gallo cocktail sherry
and put it in the 'fridge.

I tried the oil method with the same kind of jar in the 'fridge but
after a couple of weeks the hiss of exausting gasses when I opened the
jar made me more than a little suspect that something wasn't right with
this method.

I have had no spoilage problems with the sherry/garlic method. An extra
bonus is the garlic flavored sherry for stir fry, Yum!

-----
From: [e-mail] (Susan Hattie Steinsapir)
The best part of a pickle is the pickled garlic.  It's the safest thing
for me to eat - I can eat about 3 of them and not salt out.  I've seen
pickled garlic in the stores.  It costs 3 USD to 4 USD for a half-pint.
Garlic is cheap, this stuff is way overpriced!  So, I wanted to pickle
it myself but needed a recipe.  Voila! Here's a recipe for pickled
garlic from the Kerr Kitchen *Pantry*.

Pickled garlic

3 cups peeled garlic cloves (this was the tough part!)
1.5 cups white vinegar (5 percent acidity)
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 t pickling salt

Add garlic cloves to pan of boiling water.  When water returns to a
boil, boil for one minute.  Drain and pack into hot half-pint jars,
leaving 1/2 inch headspace.  Heat vinegar, sugar, and salt to boiling.
Pour boiling pickling liquid over garlic, leaving 1/2 inch headspace.
Carefully run a nonmetallic utensil down inside of jars to remove
trapped air bubbles.  Wipe jar tops and threads clean.  Place hot lids
on jars and apply screw bands firmly.  Process in Boiling Water Bath
Canner for 10 minutes.
Yield:  3 1/2 pints.

I'll probably use less sugar, more salt.  I know that I'll add hot
pepper flakes for some extra kick.

As an addendum, from Susan Hattie Steinsapir:
When I pickled the garlic, I soaked it overnight in the fridge in
vinegar.  I poked holes in it so the vinegar could penetrate it better
and then I boiled it in the vinegar.  I didn't use sugar at all but
used more salt.  I haven't opened a jar yet but gave one to my sister.
She was thrilled.

-----
From: [e-mail] (JOUET)
Garlic Soup 1

1 clove garlic
2 Tbls. olive oil
3 Tbls butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 Cups chicken stock
4 slices white bread, crusts removed
2/3 Cup light cream
1 ounce blanched almonds, finely chopped
Garnish: fresh parsley or chives, chopped

Separate the garlic cloves, removing the papery skins. Heat the oil in
a pan, add the garlic, and cook for 10-15 minutes until tender. Remove
from the heat. Cook, then skin. Roughly chop the flesh.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the garlic and onion, cover,
and cook over low heat for 10-15 minutes until the onion is soft. Pour
in the stock, add the bread, and simmer for 30 minutes.

Transfer the soup to a blender or food processor. Add the cream and
almonds and blend until smooth. Garnish and serve

NOTES: Garlic that has been smoked over oak chips adds a great flavor
but regular garlic will work quite well.

Garlic Soup 2

1 whole garlic bulbs
2 quarts water
2 teaspoons salt
a pinch of pepper
1/4 teaspoon sage
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon bay leaf
4 sprigs parsley
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 whole egg yolks
4 tablespoons olive oil
some grated Parmesan cheese

Separate the garlic cloves, drop into boiling water for 30 seconds.
Drain, plunge into cold water, and peel. Put the garlic with the 2
quarts of water, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and
olive oil into a large saucepan and boil slowly for 30 minutes. Adjust
seasoning.

Beat the egg yolks in a soup tureen until they are thick. Beat in the
oil very slowly, as if making mayonnaise. Just before serving, beat a
cup of the hot soup into the egg mixture slowly, so that the eggs heat
gradually.

Strain in the rest of the soup through a sieve, beating constantly;
keeping back the garlic and seasonings. Press the garlic against the
sieve to get the juice out. Serve at once with fresh French bread or
croutons and cheese.

Alternative: instead of the oil and egg mix in the tureen, strain the
soup and return it to the pot. Add 3 cups potatoes, diced, and a pinch
of saffron; simmer for about 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.

Garlic Soup 3

1/2 cup oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 oz stale white bread, crusts removed, crumbled
1 teaspoon paprika
pinch salt
pinch cayenne pepper
4 cups water
3 whole tomatoes, peeled and coarsely
2 whole eggs, lightly beaten
Garnish: 2 sprigs parsley, finely chopped

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the garlic and saute until soft but not
brown. Add the bread and cook over moderate heat until light golden but
do not brown. Add the paprika, salt, cayenne, water, and tomatoes, then
simmer for 30 minutes over low heat.

With a wooden spoon, beat the soup until the bread disintegrates. While
beating, add the eggs. Simmer for a few moments but do not boil. The
soup should be highly seasoned. If necessary, add more cayenne and
salt.
Garnish with parsley and serve.

-----
From: Susan Hattie Steinsapir <[e-mail]>
Here's yet another garlic soup recipe.  This one from Elizabeth David's
*French Country Cooking*.

Soupe A L'Ail
This version is from Languedoc

Put 2 tablespoons of goose or other good dripping into a deep
earthenware casserole.  In this, gently melt 24 cloves of garlic
without letting them brown.  (Note, most of us don't have goose fat or
an earthenware casserole.  I usually have some schmaltz - rendered
chicken fat - on hand, or use a mixture of butter and olive oil.  Use
an enameled soup pot.)

Over this pour 3 to 4 pints of warmed stock or water.  Season with
salt, black pepper, nutmeg and mace.  Cook for 15 minutes.  Put the
soup through a sieve.  (By this, I think you smush the garlic cloves
through.)  Return the soup to the pot to reheat it.

In a bowl, beat the yolks of three to four eggs with three tablespoons
of olive oil.  Stir some of the soup into the eggs, then pour the egg
mixture back into the soup without letting it boil again.

Have some slices of stale bread, toasted in the oven with the egg
whites (not beaten) spread over them.  Put these bread slices into a
soup dish and pour the soup over them.

Should serve 4 to 6 easily. Enjoy.

==========

2.18 Thyme

-----
Latin name: Thymus vulgaris and other Thymus species.

=====
2.18.1  Growing thyme
-----
From: [e-mail] (SkiFast123)
Transplanting thyme: a suggestion made by Adelma Grenier Simmons (of
  Caprilands, CT fame) in one of her many herb pamphlets is to bury
  one-half of the plant along with the roots in the soil.  In other
  words, you will only, after transplanting, be able to see 1/2 of the
  plant that you had formerly.  The other 1/2 will be underground.
  Since thyme is tricky to transplant bc its roots are so fine and in
  my experience, easy to sever from the main plant, this method has
  worked with good results for me.

==========

2.19 Lemon grass

-----
Latin name: Cymbopogon citratus.

=====
2.19.2  Harvesting lemon grass
-----

From: [e-mail] (Mari J Stoddard)
Scissor off the top third of the leaves, [dry] and use in tea or
  potpourri. Do this whenever you have lots of points sticking up,
  rather than harvested edges.  I love to mix it with mint and Texas
  Ranger (all three fresh off the plant).  Supposed to be good for
  throat complaints (cough, soreness).  Rose petals or hibiscus makes
  for a prettier color.
Cut off a clump to ground level, use bottom third in cooking - sliced
  fine or diced.  Traditionally boiled in soups or sauces.  For
  instance, lemon grass clump, chicken broth, coconut milk, garlic and
  a bit of fish sauce makes a great soup.  Wait till you have at least
  three clumps.
Cut off a clump almost to ground level and lay on the BBQ grill under
  fish or poultry.  I usually separate the clump vertically into 1/4-
  1/2 inch diameter lengths and grill them for about a minute before
  putting down the fish.
Separate the pot contents into clumps, and plant each clump in a new
  pot.

-----
From: Christopher Loffredo <[e-mail]>
Either start by trimming off some of the older blades every few weeks,
  leaving some young shoots on the plant, then (1) roll up each blade
  into a tight curl or tie it into a bow and freeze it at once inside a
  plastic bag, or
Dry the leaves, chop them up, and store in jars.
If you use the freezer method all you have to do is thaw the lemon
  grass and it's ready to use. Dried lemon grass needs to be softened
  up if you're going to cook with it, so place some in a small bowl
  with a few tablespoons of hot water and let it soak for a while
  before cooking.

=====
2.19.3  Using / preserving lemon grass
-----
From: [e-mail] (Eric Hunt)
This should be a great refresher.
Iced Lemongrass Tea
  1/4 c  Chopped fresh lemongrass-tops or
    2 tb Dried flakes
    4 c  Boiling water
         Sugar to taste
Preheat teapot with boiling water; discard water. Add lemongrass and
boiling water, steep 8 to 10 minutes; strain. Allow to cool, sweeten
to taste, and serve in tall glasses with ice. Yield: 4 servings

-----
From: [e-mail] (ANN ALBERS)
Lemon Grass Crockpot Chicken & Thai soup from the leftover stock
-----
1 whole chicken
8 young lemongrass stalks, 4-6" long (use the tender white parts from
    the base of young shoots. These are tastiest)
salt and pepper to taste

Rinse the chicken and pat dry.  Rub all over with butter and then salt
and pepper to taste.  Stuff about half the lemongrass stalks in the
cavity of the chicken and put it in a crockpot, or dutch oven. Make
slits in the skin and insert the other stalks.  Trim if necessary to
fit these in.  Pour water over the chicken to submerge it about halfway
and cook on low 6-8 hrs till tender.

Now, you can eat the chicken and make thai soup out of the lemon grass
stock.  To make the soup, strain all the stuff out of the stock. Add a
can of coconut milk, several shakes of red pepper flakes, bits of
leftover chicken that you've shredded and then salt and pepper to
taste.  Heat thoroughly & in the last five minutes of cooking time add
some sliced mushrooms, & green onions. Yum.

Other ideas
-----
Make lemongrass tea.  I never measure, just pour boiling water over the
leaves or stems and steep till it's well-colored.  Add honey to taste.

Use the tender young shoots, chopped in stir fry dishes to add flavor.
It's good with stir fried chicken, water chestnuts, sliced carrots and
broccoli. I usually stir fry the lemongrass shoots first (about an hour
ahead of time) in a little oil then mix with teriaki or soy sauce, some
ginger, and cornstarch to thicken. Then, after stir-frying the rest of
the stuff, dump the sauce over all and allow it to thicken.  Serve with
rice.

-----
From: Sam Waring <[e-mail]>

Nasi Kuneng (Yellow rice)
    1 lemon grass stalk or lemon zest
2 1/2 c  rice
1 1/2 c  coconut milk
    3 c  water
2 1/2 ts turmeric
    1 ts salt
    1 sl galangal, dry
    1    bay leaf
    1    krapau leaf

Once reserved for religious ceremonies, nasi kuning is still served
on special occasions in Indonesia.  This sweet and aromatic centerpiece
of a dish is perfect with satay.

Cut lemon grass into pieces about 3" long and tie into a bundle. In a
3-quart pan combine lemon grass, rice, coconut milk, water, turmeric,
salt, galangal, bay leaf, and citrus leaf.  Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered,
stirring gently every now and then, just until liquid is absorbed.
To finish cooking, steam according to one of the methods listed below.

To steam in cooking pan: cover pan, reduce heat to low, and cook until
rice is tender (15-20 minutes).  Halfway thru estimated cooking time,
gently fluff rice with 2 forks.  Remove and discard seasonings.
Transfer to a serving bowl or mound rice on a platter into a rounded
cone.

To steam using traditional method: transfer rice and seasonings to a
colander or steamer basket insert.  Into a large kettle, pour water
to a depth or 1 1/2 inches: bring to boil over high heat.  Place
colander in kettle.  Cover and reduce heat, steam until rice is tender
(about 20 minutes). Remove and discard seasonings. Serve as noted above.

-- per Larry Haftl

-----
From: [e-mail] (Stephanie da Silva)
Lemongrass Drink

A handful of fresh lemongrass leaves, preferable the soft grassy tops,
or the top half of 12 fresh green stalks
3 cups cold water
1/4 cup sugar syrup

Cut the leaves or tops into 2-inch lengths, measure out 1 1/2 cups,
loosely packed.  In a blender, combine the tops, water and syrup and
blend at high speed until the water is a vivid green and the lemongrass
leaves are reduced to fine, short, needlelike pieces, about 1 minute.
Strain through a very fine sieve into a large pitcher, spoon off and
discard green foam.  Taste to see if it's sweet enough, and add more
syrup if you like.  Serve in tall glasses over ice.

Sugar syrup:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Combine sugar and water and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and cook
until liquid has thickened and colored slightly, about 5 minutes.
Cool.

==========

2.20 Horseradish

-----
Latin name: Armoracia rusticana.

=====
2.20.1  Growing horseradish
-----

With this plant, the problem is less how to get it to grow and more
how to get rid of it later. To illustrate:

From: david bennett <[e-mail]>

I need some help; how do I get rid of horseradish which I planted a
number of years ago that now threatens to take over my garden?  Key
issue is no matter how deep you dig; you never get all of the root
out.  Now there hides beneath the soil an infant root waiting to
become a big plant next year, etc.

-----
From [e-mail] (sonny hays-eberts), to above:

Learn to appreciate horseradish - I doubt you'll be able to eradicate
it short of using some harsh chemical means. you'll very likely have
to settle for control instead of removal.

If your soil is not heavy clay, I'd recommend spading up the area and
using a sieve to extract as many runners as possible. depending on
the area of your problem, that may be some work.

You can also pinch off all the leaves (continuosly) in an effort to
deplete the roots of energy.

You may also have some luck by using a large sheet of black plastic to
mulch the area, though I'd not recommend this in times of extreme
heat, it tends to bake the soil pretty badly.

Another method used to contain such invasive plants is to ring the area
with some sort of buried edging; I know of people who cut the bottoms
off five gallon plastic buckets, bury them and plant the horseradish
in the center of each bucket (the bottom is removed for drainage).

While it's too late to do that, you may be able to define an area,
trench it, and bury a foot or two of something (metal will corrode
eventually, wood will rot, plastic isn't very organic and eventually
becomes brittle, all end up needing to be replaced over time) to
restrict underground movement.

=====
2.20.3  Using horseradish
-----
also see 4.9.5 Mustards, below.
-----

From: [e-mail] (Rick Cook)
First get a gas mask . . .
Seriously, the root is incedibly pungent when you're grinding it. You
  can simply peel and grate it and use as is, or you can mix with
  mustard, vinegar, cream, etc. for various sauces.
A word of warning: Proceed slowly. Fresh horseradish is a lot hotter
  than the stuff you get in bottles.

From: [e-mail] (Christine A. Owens )
Dig up the root.  Wash carefully, and peel like a carrot.  Grate very
  fine.  Add 1 T cider vinegar and a pinch of salt per 1/2 c.  Store
  frozen, or in the refrigerator.
You can add a couple of ounces of grated horseradish to vinegar, and
  let it sit for a couple of weeks to produce a spiced vinegar with a
  real 'zip'.  A small amount of grated horseradish added to any
  dressing or sauce will pep it up effectively.  Mix powdered mustard,
  the vinegar of your choice, and grated horseradish in equal volumes
  for the best mustard in the world.
BTW, horseradish greens are also very good, either diced very fine as
  an addition to a salad, steamed like spinach, or sauteed in a little
  butter or oil.

From: [e-mail]
Horseradish Jelly
    3 C. granulated sugar
  1/2 C. prepared horseradish
  1/2 C. apple cider vinegar
   6 oz. liquid pectin
In a large saucepan, combine sugar, horseradish and vinegar over medium
  heat.  Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves and mixture
  comes to a boil.  Stir in pectin.  Boil 1 minute, stirring
  constantly.  Remove from heat.  Skim foam from top of jelly.  Pour
  into sterilized jars and seal.  Yield:  about 3 C. jelly.  Delicious
  with meat or cream cheese/crackers.

==========

2.21 Fennel

-----
Latin name: Foeniculum vulgare.

=====
2.21.1  Growing fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <[e-mail]>:

Fennel is easy to grow, growing wild in many areas. An annual, it looks
like dill, only slightly more coarse. I've had problems in wet years
with it getting some sort of mold, but is generally quite troublefree.
It prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Seeds can be planted as soon
as frost danger is past. It's best to blanch (cover with dirt) the
bulbs if you plan on harvesting them to keep them tender. Plants should
be thinned to about a foot apart. You should get some volunteers if you
let them go to seed.

=====
2.21.2  Harvesting fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <[e-mail]>:

The tender leaves may be diced and used to add a hint of licorice
flavor and is great to use with seafood. Fennel seed can be used with
poopy seed, sesame seed, celery or dill seed on bread. The bulb of the
plant is also commonly harvested, though I always let mine go to seed
instead. For best flavor harvest the leaves just as the flowers are
starting to bloom.

-----
From: [e-mail]

> Can anyone give me some ideas on how to store or prepare the surplus
> of fennel seeds in my yard?

If you intend to use the seeds in baking or other cooking, then you
must collect them from the flower heads as soon as they begin to turn
brown, or they will fall to the ground to re-seed.  I store whole dill
seed heads (as you can do with fennel) in paper bags and keep them in a
cool, dry pantry in the basement. Fennel seeds are excellent with
grilled or broiled fish, chicken, with tomato based soups, and of
course, in breads, cakes & cookies.

If the seeds have already fallen to the ground, and are not cleared
away, you can expect to see the emergence of new plants in early
spring.  This may delight you, however you should consider where these
plants will grow in relation to the rest of garden.  Fennel should be
grown in a bed of it's own since most herbs won't do well in its
presence, and it will stunt tomatoes and bush beans.

=====
2.21.3  Using / preserving fennel
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <[e-mail]>:

The leaves and seeds may be dried. The leaves may also be frozen. The
tastiest way i've had it is from a local restuarant, Ambrosia. A dish
called fettucine Gamberi, it had fettucine (duh!) in a parmesan cream
sauce with garlic, fennel leaves, parsley, scallops, shrimp, capers and
fresh tomatoes. Quite tasty! Fennel has an anise or licorice flavor,
and can be used to flavor cheeses, vegetables and some pastries in
addition to seafood.

=====
2.21.4 Which Fennel do you have?
-----
From: Sonny Hays-Eberts <[e-mail]>:

There are two common types of fennel; Bronze Fennel and Common Fennel
also known as Finnochio (or Florence Fennel). True to it's name, the
Bronze Fennel's foliage is a dusky brown. My experience has all been
with bronze fennel, which is pretty in the garden as well as useful for
cooking.

==========

2.22 Anise hyssop

-----
Latin name: Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop)
            Agastache rugosa     (Licorice mint, Korean)

-----
2.22.3  Using / preserving Anise hyssop
-----
From: Patrick Millard <[e-mail]>

They are both strongly scented of licorice and somewhat sweet smelling
as well. They are attracive in the garden with long spikes of blue-
purple flowers. They are considered to be good bee forage. They will
grow well indoors under flourescent lighting, blooming about 2 months
after seeding. Anise Hyssop is native to N. central U.S.  I used the
leaves and flowers in salads and for flavoring meat dishes. They are
supposed to good as a tea also.

==========

2.23 Parsley

-----
Latin name: Petroselinum crispum.

=====
2.23.1  Growing parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Parsley is a biennial.  Plant seeds early in the spring (they're a
little slow to germinate).  The first year, you get plenty of leaves,
on fairly long stems that come from the crown of the plant.  The
second year, you get a couple of leaves and a long bloom stalk, which
looks very much like Queen Anne's Lace (they're related.)  If you let
it go to seed, some of the seed will grow the next year.

To have a steady supply of parsley for cooking, you should plant two
years in a row.  After that, it will self-sow if you let it.

Parsley's easy to grow - reasonable soil, sun, and water if you have a
long dry spell.  The only pest I ever had was leaf miners, and the
damage was minimal.

=====
2.23.2  Harvesting parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
Pick leaves from the plant, stem and all.  The first year, the more you
  pick, the more leaves you'll get.  The second year, there are only a
  couple of leaves, and no more will grow, because the plant is working
  on bloom and seeds.

=====
2.23.2  Using/preserving parsley
-----
From: Linda Kovacs ([e-mail])
The flat "Italian" parsley is the most strongly flavored.  If you're
  going to use it for cooking, this is the kind to get.  Curly parsley
  is much prettier on a plate, but doesn't have as much flavor.  Use it
  mostly for garnishes.
Parsley is, of course, a classic garnish.  A sprig of curly parsley on
  a plate really dresses it up.  You can also chop parsley and sprinkle
  it on meats, vegetables, etc.
Parsley is also a classic soup herb.  When you're making stock, parsley
  is one of the "aromatic vegetables" that's recommended to make the
  flavor richer.  For this, use stem and all; in fact, this is a good
  place to use stems that you've cut off from pieces used for garnish.
It's a wonderful addition to a cooked vegetable, especially green beans
  or peas.  Tends to accentuate the flavor of the vegetable.
It's good in salads, too, adding a different "green" texture and
  flavor. It's a bit too strong to be used by itself, for most people's
  taste.
Parsley can be chopped and dried, or chopped and frozen in ice cubes.
  The cubes are great added to soup or a sauce.  The dried parsley can
  be added as is to a dish to be cooked or used as a garnish on soup,
  or soaked in a little bit of water and sprinkled on top of already-
  cooked food as a garnish.

==========

2.24 Monarda or Bee Balm

-----
Latin name: Monarda didyma and other Monarda species.

=====
2.24.1  Growing Monarda
-----
From: [e-mail] (Jnewbo)
My Monarda Cambridge Scarlet (the most common one) doesn't stay in
  place; it moves forward on flat stems near the surface.  That means
  it creeps forward and needs to be divided and resituated every two-
  three years or so.  It also is prone to mildew - but the crown-like
  scarlet blooms are fabulous.
A more well-behaved variety is the pink one, "Croftway Pink"; it has
  more lanceolate leaves and smaller blooms, but the bees (including
  hummingbird-moth) love it, and it enlarges in the more traditional
  way, increasing the clump rather than traveling all over the garden.
Both bloom about three weeks, maybe more (sometimes I get "double" and
  even "triple decker" crowns on the red one).  After that clip back
  and you may get more smaller blooms after a while.

-----
From: Tristan Hatton-Ellis <Tristan.Hatton-Ellis@bristo>
Both 'Croftway Pink' and Cambridge Scarlet are rather mildew-prone. You
  may be interested to know that there are a whole range of new hybrids
  that have come out, bearing the names of the signs of the zodiac,
  that are much more mildew-resistant. They come in colours from purple
  through red and pink to white.
Monardas are also much less prone to getting mildew (and also grow and
  flower much better) in a dampish soil, or at least in a place where
  they do not get too dry in summer.

-----
[e-mail] (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, also known as Bergamot and Bee Balm is a hardy
  perennial which grows 2-3 feet tall.  Bees love it.
The plant spreads fairly quickly through its root system.  Divide every
  three years, discarding the dead centre of the root.  The plant will
  grow well in sun or part shade.  The flowers last 4-6 weeks.

=====
2.24.3  Using / preserving Monarda
-----
From: [e-mail] (Barbara)
Monarda didyma, Bergamot or Bee Balm: The leaves dry well and can be
used to make a tea that tastes like Earl Grey tea.

From: [e-mail] (Jnewbo)
The leaves and flowers of Cambridge scarlet are marvelous, bergamotty-
flavored things, though I found the tea rather scratchy on the throat.

From: [e-mail] (Marylin Kraker)
Mondarda does make good tea, which is why it's also called Oswego tea.
It's not the same as the bergamot in Earl Grey, which is a tropical
citrus.

From: Conrad Richter <[e-mail]>
Both the leaves and flowers can be used.  The flowers, of course, add
nice colour.  Some say that the flowers have a more delicate flavour,
and of the various varieties, the red bergamot is the creme-de-la-
creme.

==========

2.25 Ginger

-----
Latin name: Zingiber officinale

=====
2.25.3 Using / preserving ginger
-----
Also see 4.8.2, Ginger beer, below.

>Does anyone know how to make preserved ginger? I've also seen it
called crystalized ginger. It is small chunks of sugar-coated ginger
and the texture is quite chewy. If you have a recipe for this I would
appreciate a copy.

From: Eve Dexter ([e-mail])
Scrape and cut into 1/4 inch slices enough non-fibrous young Ginger
root to make 1 quart. Put the slices into a large non-aluminum pat and
cover generously with water. Bring slowly to the boil an simmer,
covered until tender (20 min).  Add 1 cup sugar and stir until the
mixture boils. Remove from heat. Cover and let stand overnight at room
temperature.  Recook, simmering gently for about 15 min (after coming
to the boil).  Add 1 seeded sliced lemon and 1 cup light corn syrup.
Uncover and simmer 15 minutes longer, stirring occasionally.  Remove
from heat and let stand covered overnight.  Bring the mixture to the
boil again and add 1 cup sugar and simmer for 30 min STIRRING
CONSTANTLY (burns easily). Add 1 cup sugar, bring back to the boil and
remove from heat. Cover and let stand overnight again.  In the fourth
cooking, bring the mixture to a boil once more. When the syrup drops
heavily from the side of a spoon, and the ginger is translucent, pour
the mixture int sterile jars and seal.  This yields about 5 cups.  If
you want Candied ginger...drain the ginger after the last cooking.
Reserve the syrup for flavoring sauces and allow the slices to dry on a
sheet or better still a rack, overnight. When well dried, roll in
granulated sugar and store in tightly covered glass jars.

-----
From: [e-mail] (ANN ALBERS)
Before grilling a thick whitefish, I sometimes coat it with this
mixture:

1 cup orange juice
1/4 cup honey
1/2-inch gingerroot, chopped very fine
Sweet but tasty.

Slivered macadamia nuts or almonds may be sprinkled on after the fish
comes off the grill.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Julia Trachsel)

This is a great recipes which I always make in our cool, rainy season
out here on the west coast.  Hope you enjoy it as much as my family and
guests do.

1/2 cup shortening
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg beaten
1 cup molasses
2 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 teas. baking soda
1 tbsp. ginger
1 tsp. allspice
1 tsp. cloves
1 cup boiling water
1 cup raisins (optional)
1 cup crystalized ginger, chopped

Cream shortening, sugar, add beaten egg and molasses. Add dry
ingredients. Add boiling water, mix well. Add chopped crystalized
ginger and stir gently. Pour inti 2 small greased loaf pans. Bake at
350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. A skewer inserted into the middle should
come out clean when the gingerbread is done.

My personal twist to this recipe is to add 1 cup of crystalized ginger
(instead of 1/2 cup) and to serve it with hot lemon pie filling which
has been extended by adding enough extra water to make it pourable.

==========

3 Gardening

==========

3.1 Herbs for groundcover

-----
Also see Growing chamomile, 2.7.1, above.

From: [e-mail]

I've found the following plants useful as groundcovers.  Unless
otherwise noted, all are perennial, and hardy in my Zone 5 (north-
central Kansas) garden.

pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium
  Don't fertilize this regularly, it doesn't need the encouragement).
  NON-EDIBLE.
lemon thyme,  Thymus x citriodoratus
  Otherwise known as the thyme that ate Cleveland; semi-evergreen in my
  garden.
mother-of-thyme, Thymus serphyllum
  Semi-evergreen, turns a lovely bronzed-purple color in the winter.
caraway thyme, Thymus herba-barona
  Used in the late Middle Ages to flavor baron of beef, hence the name.
  A very low, flat, spreading plant with a fascinating fragrance &
  flavor.
oregano thyme, Thymus sp.
  Grows much like mother-of-thyme, wonderful oregano scent and flavor.
common thyme, Thymus vulgaris
Aztec sweet herb, Lippia dulcis
  Low, sprawling annual; odd, resiny scent; it's supposed to self-seed
  readily, cuttings root fairly easily.
oregano, Origanum vulgare
  May be a bit tall for a groundcover, especially after 2-3 years;
  spreads vigorously; attractive flowers.
germander, Teucrium chamaedrys
  NON-EDIBLE but fun, a broadleaf evergreen; great for rock gardens and
  retaining walls; attractive flowers.
mints, Mentha sp.
  These may be a bit tall for many uses, but for a moist spot that's
  hard to mow, or that washes out frequently, give them a try - I've
  found that the candy-scented varieties are somewhat less invasive.
chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile + Matricaria recutita
  These don't grow well in my area, it's too hot and dry; one is
  annual, one perennial.

==========

3.2 Herbs you can't get rid of (= easy gardening)

-----
Also see Growing horseradish, 2.20.1, above.

From: [e-mail] (Peter Harris)
Marigold and nasturtium. Just sprinkle a few packets around and your
  only future problem is thinning them down each year.

From: HeK
Then there are the mints, and comfrey. Both should be planted in
  containers which are dug into the ground to avoid them taking over the
  garden, and to make it possible to get rid of them if you decide to.

==========

3.3 Tall herbs

-----

From: [e-mail] (Peter Harris)
Fennel is the obvious one, the tinted variety is nice although I only
  have the ordinary. Really good fun is Lovage, it can be huge. It is
  known in Germany as the "Maggi Herb" and is a constituent of that
  proprietory food enhancer. It has a pretty strong "dark" taste and
  was used to "extend" stews. I.e. it made a stew taste as thought
  there was more meat in it than there really was !
Latin names: Lovage = Levisticum officinale. Fennel = Foeniculum vulgare.

==========

3.4 Herbs for shade

-----
From: [e-mail] (sonny hays-eberts)
sweet cicely and woodruff are two i've had good luck with, in heavy
  shade. most culinary herbs prefer full sun. those that are shade
  tolerant, as a general rule, are not as heavy on flavor.

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Many of the broader leaf herbs will grow in the shade, especially the
  ones that tend to bolt.  A good example of this is cilantro or
  parsley.

==========

3.5 Growing herbs indoors

-----
From: Catherine A Hensley <[e-mail]>

[e-mail] (Rebecca L. Price) wrote:
> I love cooking with fresh herbs so I tried growing my own.  I planted
> basil, chives, dill, and parsley in June.  The chives are doing fine.

I have bad news.  The chives will eventually begin to look sickly,
because they will become root-bound and they will also be expecting a
cool spell.  When this happens, remove them from the pot, break off a
chunk of plant and roots, and move these to a new pot.  Then put them
in the refrigerator for a week or two, and then back out on the window
sill.

> The basil is OK; however, it is not growing as tall and thick as I
> had imagined.  I suspect that it needs more sunlight.

Basil that needs more light tends to get leggy--long spindly growth and
few leaves.  Is that the problem?  Another possiblility is that the
basil is root-bound.  How large is the pot, compared to how large the
plant is?  If the pot is in danger of falling over from the weight of
the plant, or if the plant is dropping leaves, move the whole thing to
a larger pot.

> My parsley looks like it is dying a slow death.  It is not really
> growing, and the leaves near the bottom have yellowed and sort of
> mushed into the soil!  Did I overwater?  Is it the temperature? I
> keep the AC on.

Parsley in the soil grows a long tap root, like a carrot (same family).
In a shallow pot, it can't do that, so the root splits into many
thinner roots and go around and around the pot until it runs out of
soil.  Yup, root-bound again.  Next time try to find a narrow but deep
pot.

> My dill looks about the same as the parsley.  I know I should not
> have planted it in the summer.  It went to seed almost immediately.
> Should I throw it out?  Is there anything I can do?

Going to seed immediately is a sign of stress, although I don't know if
dill usually has a tap root too.  Anyway, as an annual herb, it's now
past its prime and can't be made to get young again. <g>

> Should I not be growing these herbs inside?  Are there any herbs or
> peppers that are good to grow indoors?  If so, what are they, and
> when should I plant them?  I am especially interested in cilantro,
> mint, and jalapeno peppers.

In spite of its problems, many people grow parsley inside, so that's
okay.  Dill grows to about 3 ft, so that is probably not a good choice.
Basil is good, but it is an annual, so expect to sow some more as the
seasons pass.  I grow rosemary inside successfully, but before I gained
some experience I killed three in three years. Peppers can be grown
inside, but they like bright light, and in order to have fruit the
flowers must be hand-pollinated (not as hard as it sounds, sometimes
you can just thump the flowers with your fingertip to encourage self-
pollinating).  I also grow lemon-scented geranium and ginger inside
over the winter, although they live outside during the summer.

Anyway, good luck

Catherine

==========

3.6 Growing herbs from cuttings

-----
> Has anyone ever tried to root lavender before? I am trying it and I'm
> not quite sure if I'm doing it right. I have taken long woody stems
> from my outdoor plant and have placed them in damp sand in potting pots
> indoors.  I believe I am just to keep the soil moist, is this correct?
> Also, how long should it take before roots develope and I am able to
> transplant them?

From [e-mail] (Ceci Henningsson):

This is something about lavendar that I wrote for rec.gardens some time
ago. It works well with most herbs. For particularly watery-stemmed
plants (think impatiens) putting them in a jar with water, like you
describe works well. If you add just a teeny-weeny pinch of rooting
hormone to the water, you'll be surprised at how quickly the cuttings
develop lots of roots.

Lavender is one of the easiest plants (along with fuchsias) to take
cuttings from, so it's a good idea to start with them if you're not
familiar with the technique.

In addition to what you do, I do the following: I take fairly new stems
and pinch out the flower buds. New stems root easier than older,
woodier stems. For this reason cuttings are often taken in spring when
there are lots of new stems. If your cuttings fail now, try again in
spring. (Disregard that if you're in the southern hemisphere.) The
reason I pinch out the buds, is that I want the plant-to-be to
concentrate on making roots, not on flowering and setting seed. I cut
the stem from the plant just above a leaf pair, and then I cut the stem
just below a leaf pair. It may seem wasteful to throw a large portion
of the stem in the compost, but it won't grow any roots anyway (or at
least not as easily as the part just below the leaves). I also remove
the leaves below soil level.

Start by watering the growing medium. I usually water it so that water
comes out at the bottom. That means it is fairly wet. Then I level the
surface before coming back to the cutting. I use what my local nursery
sells as "sowing soil". It is potting soil with 1/3 sand added.

Before I insert the stem into the growing medium, I dip the lower part
(the one that will be below the surface) in a rooting hormone, that
will aid the formation of roots. If you don't have any rooting hormone
at home, you can get it at your garden center. It doesn't cost much,
and lasts a lifetime, so it's really a cheap investment. Because you
now have the powder on the stem, you can't just push the stem into the
growing medium, or you will rub off the powder. Instead you poke a hole
into it, and insert the stem. Make sure there is contact between the
stem and the growing medium. That is called "firming in". Then I take a
clear polythene bag, cut a few small holes into it and put it over the
pot. Place the pots in the shade. Too much sun and heat will dry out
the plants before they have formed any roots to take up water with.
Rooting usually takes a few weeks.

Some general advice:
* Think about hygiene. This is something to do on the clean kitchen
counter, rather than on the lawn, because you want to introduce as few
germs and fungus spores as possible. Since soil and plant material from
the garden carries a lot of microbes which are harmful to people
(tetanus and parasite eggs for instance), it's vital for your health
that you clean the counter afterwards. If you have a greenhouse or
potting shed you can do this in, that's probably the best place.

* Check on the cuttings from time to time. They won't need any water
for the first few weeks until they have formed roots if you have them
under plastic bags. You can see that roots have formed when there's new
(light-green) growth on the cuttings. Have patience and don't put them
in the garden at once. They need to be a bit more established first. I
suggest that, depending on the size of the pot you're using and how
exposed to sun and winds the site is, to wait for maybe 1 month after
new growth is showing before planting out.

* Place as few cuttings as possible in each pot. That way, if you get a
fungus infection in one pot, the whole lot won't be ruined. Also, use
small pots. Soil that is not "used" by roots has a tendency to get
stale, and that's something you have to avoid here.

* When planting out, remember that lavender plants get quite big,
although the cuttings seem tiny. I know from experience that it's easy
to be tempted into putting them quite close to each other.

This is getting to sound quite complicated, though, in real life, it
isn't. I've taken maybe 10 lavender cuttings at 3 occassions, and none
of them failed. Lavender cuttings seem particularly tough. Some times
I've been convinced that they had died when they were bone-dry, but
they've always come back to life with the help of some water.

==========

3.7 Warning signs of soil nutrient deficiencies

-----
From: Jennifer A. Cabbage <[e-mail]>
This is information obtained from Charles Knight (my soils professor).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
ELEMENT      FUNCTION                 DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS in plants
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Macronutrients:
-----
N-           Component of all amino   Uniform yellowing appears first
nitrogen     acids, enzymes,          on lower leaves. Growth ceases.
             proteins, etc.

P-           Essential for ADP, ATP,  Purple veins. Some plants:
phosphorous  DNA, RNA. Involved in    unform ashy color. Stunted
             protein synthesis.       growth.

K-           Regulates water uptake.  Tip-burn, brown spots appear
potassium    Component of cell walls. first on lower leaves. Weak
                                      stems.

Ca-          Component of cell walls. Uniform yellowing appears first
calcium      Involved in cell         on young leaves. Growing tips
             division.                (roots and shoots) die. Plants
                                      dwarfed.

Mg-          Component of chlorophyll. Yellowing of the veins. Yellowed
magnesium    Enzyme activator.        areas die.

S-           Component of all         Uniform yellowing in whole plant.
sulphur      proteins. Important in   Thin lateral stems (exception:
             enzyme reactions and     Cruciferae).
             photosynthesis.
-----
Micronutrients (only a few GRAMS per acre needed)
-----
Fe-          Component or co-factor   Yellowing of the veins. Larger
iron         of many oxidases.        veins stay green.

Mn-          Essential for photo-     Yellowing of the veins in younger
manganese    synthesis, N-metabolism, leaves
             N-assimilation.

Zn-          Promotes growth          Rosette. Small yellowed leaves.
zinc         hormones, seed           Scalloped leaf edges.
             maturation and production

Cu-          Important in photo-      Pale yellow-bleached leaves.
copper       photosynthesis, protein  Leaves and stems not firm. Tip
             and carbohydrate         and stem dieback.
             metabolism.

B-           Essential for cell       Yellowing of younger leaves.
boron        division + development   Internal browning of cork of
             Synthesis of nucleic     stems and fruit. Many flowers
             acids, plant hormones.   abort.

Mo-          Essential for N-fixation Uniform yellowing of whole plant.
molybdenum   and assimilation.        Extreme curling of leaves.

Cl-          Influences photosynthesis    Unknown.
chlorine     and root growth.

Co-          Essential for N-fixation.    Unknown.
cobalt

==========

4 Processing herbs

==========

4.1 Vinegars

-----
Also see at least 2.4.3 / Chive Vinegar, 4.6.3 / Rose Vinegar,
  and 2.9.3 / Mint Vinegar.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Hmm...I have made many herbal vinegars for my own home use and have
always used cidar vinegar.  This, for me, has always seemed quite
sufficient and is very economical.  Is there any reason why cidar
vinegar is not acceptable?  Have I unknowingly been commiting a
culinary crime? Also, I have found bay leaf and rosemary to produce a
very well flavored vinegar.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Not at all...I use either apple cider vinegar, or white vinegar,
depending on what kind of herb/flower is to be infused.

-----
From: [e-mail] (christopher hedley)
I use cider vinegar.
How about Rosemary vinegar which can be used as a hair rinse as well as
in cooking and Garlic vinegar which is a good general antiseptic as
well as excellent salad dressing.
Good looking labels are an important final touch.

-----
After asking about uses for a combination of parsley, sage, rosemary
  and thyme I got the following reply:
From: [e-mail] (Kate Blacklock):
  It makes great flavored vinegar!
Which of course sounds intriguing and has to be tried.  ;)

From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Basically, if you like it as an herb, put a good sized sprig of it in
  some white vinegar and wait a couple of months and try it.  This
  works with sage (don't leave it too long), oregano, tarragon, thyme
  (may have to leave it longer) and chives that I can think of.

Rose petal vinegar
From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker):
  1 c rose petals
  3 whole cloves
  2 c white wine vinegar
Trim away white part of rose petals.  Wash and drain thoroughly.
  Slightly bruise petals and place with cloves in a wide mouth canning
  jar.  Place vinegar in a medium saucepan bring to a boil.  Pour
  vinegar over petals, cover at once with metal lids, and screw bands
  tight.  Let stand at room temp for 1 week. Strain vinegar into
  decorative jars, discarding rose petals.  Seal jars with a cork or
  other airtight lid.  Makes 2 cups.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Herbed Vinegars:

Cayenne Vinegar:
Put from a 1/4 to 1/2 ounce of the best cayenne pepper into a bottle.
Pour on it a pint of strong vinegar. Cork it closely, and shake it well
every 23 days. It may remain any length of time but will be ready in
about 2 weeks.

Celery Vinegar:
Add to a pint of boiling vinegar a few grains of cayenne pepper, or 1/2
oz peppercorns, a teaspoon of salt and 2 C white portion of the roots
and stems of fresh celery, sliced thin. Let boil 2-3 mins, turn into a
stone jar and close tightly as soon as cold. It may be strained off and
bottled in 3-4 weeks with out injury.

Chili or Capsicum Vinegar:
Put an oz of chilies or capsicums into a pint of vinegar, cover closely
and let stand 2 weeks. After straining the vinegar will then be ready
to use.

Cucumber Vinegar:
First wipe then without paring, slice young cucumbers into a stone jar.
Pour on sufficient boiling vinegar to cover. Add a t of salt and 2/3
the quantity of peppercorns to 1 1/2 pints of vinegar. The mixture may
remain thus for a month, or even two months if well protected from the
air. It should then be strained, allowed to settle, and poured quite
clear into small dry bottles, which should be tightly corked. A mild
onion may be mixed with the cucumbers, if it is desired.

Horseradish Vinegar:
On 4 oz of young and freshly scraped horseradish pour a quart of
boiling vinegar, and cover closely. The vinegar should be ready in 3-4
days. But the mixture may remain for weeks or months before straining.
An oz of shallot, minced may be substituted for one oz of horseradish
if the flavor is preferred.

Mint Vinegar:
Slightly chop or bruise the young leaves of freshly gathered mint pack
in bottles, filing nearly to the neck, pour in vinegar to; cover the
mint. In 50 days strain off and bottle for use.

Nasturtium Vinegar:
Loosely fill a quart jar with clean nasturtium flowers. Add a finely
chopped shallot, a very small piece of garlic, and a piece of red
pepper. Fill the jar with cold vinegar, and let stand 2 months. Add 1 t
of salt, strain through several thicknesses of cheesecloth and store in
sterilized jars closely sealed.

Raspberry Vinegar:
Crush 4 qts raspberries and cover with 4 qts mild vinegar. After 2 days
strain through doubled cheesecloth and pour the same vinegar over a
further 4 qts of berries. Let stand again for 2 days. Strain, measure.
Add 2 # sugar for each quart of liquid, bringing slowly to boiling
point. Boil 10 minutes then skim, turn into sterilized jars and seal.
(Use 2-3 T in a glass of icewater for a pleasant summer drink)

Raspberry strawberry Vinegar:
Use the same recipe as for Raspberry Vinegar only half the quantity for
each fruit.

Shallot Vinegar:
Over 46 oz shallots peeled and bruised, pour a quart of good vinegar.
Cover closely and in 23 weeks vinegar may be used after straining. A
few drops is sufficient flavor for sauces and dressings.

Onion Vinegar:
Same as for shallot.

Garlic Vinegar:
Make the same as for shallot using only 1/2 the quantity of garlic.

Tarragon Vinegar:
Strip the tarragon from the large stalks. Put into small stone jar or
wide necked jar, and in doing this, twist some of the branches so as to
bruise the leaves and tear them apart. Pour in enough very pale vinegar
so as to cover the top. Allow to infuse for about 2 months or more.
Strain into small bottles and cork.

==========

4.2 Herb oil

-----
From: [e-mail] (Edgar Wickberg)
All homemade herb or vegetable flavoured oils have doubtful safety if
they are not refrigerated immediately and kept in the refrigerator.
The reason for concern is botulism.  Clostridium botulinum, the
organism that makes the deadly poison that results in botulism, grows
in airfree environments.  It is only when it grows that it produces
the toxin.  Putting anything up in oil produces a really great
airfree ( oxygen free) environment and therfore the risk of toxin
production.  Clostridium botulinum is a very common organism in all
of our environments, but the orgamism itself isn't dangerous to us.
It requires, besides the airfree environment, a low acid one and
temperatures above fridge temps.  This is probably more than you ever
wanted to hear about why not to make garlic flavoured oil.  Why not
dry most of your garlic so it will last and make just a little oil
and keep it in the fridge.  To make the kind that you store in the
fridge, just heat a small quanitity of oil ( of your choice), put a
few peeled cloves of garlic in a small bottle, pour the hot oil over,
cool for half an hour, cover and refrigerate.

-----
From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
Take the cleaned herbs and place into a jar (a mason jar will do).
  Heat the oil to just warm (too hot and you will cook the herbs
  instead of extracting the taste), pour the warm oil over the herbs
  and let set.  Check every 3 days to once a week, straining and
  adding additional herbs until the desired flavor is reached.

HeK comment to above: keep in refrigerator until desired flavor is
  reached and thereafter.

==========

4.3 Drying your herbs

-----
From: [e-mail] (Amy Smith):
You don't need anything terribly high tech to dry herbs...
For leaves you can use old window screens in a DRY DARK place (like the
  attic). If you are growing seedlings, place the screens on the top of
  the fluorescent lights.
For roots you might want to use the oven on low. Chopping the roots
  first helps. Food hydrators are better for roots.
Flowers are like leaves but you MUST be careful about keeping it dark.
  (the sun leeches the nutrients out of herbs and they disintegrate
  too.)
You can also hang bunches of leaves on string in a dark place outside
  (if you are in a fairly low humid climate) Or put flowers or leaves
  in paper sacks and hang them to dry (shake them or stir them
  periodically so they don't stick together inside the sack.)

From: ?:
Never store herbs in completely airtight containers unless you have
  access to a dessicant (like you get in pill bottles) to store with
  them since you will never perfectly dry them and therefore they need
  to breath.

From: [e-mail] (Judith Rogow), in response to above:
An old remedy - tie a few grains of rice in a bit of cheese cloth and
  add it to the bottle if you must keep it tightly closed.

From HeK:
Never use a microwave to dry herbs.  First, timing and stuff is
  different for different microwave ovens, second, the taste isn't that
  good, and third, you can end up with a fire in your kitchen.
If you use a dehydrator never go above 40 deg. Celcius. Most herbs are
  tasty because of volatile oils and in high temperatures these
  volatile oils get volatile and your herbs get tasteless.
And, if you use the bunched-herbs -method outlined above, strip the
  leaves off the stalks after your herbs are dry. Stalks aren't that
  tasty in soups, and can be tossed on barbecue coals to give some
  taste there.

==========

4.4 Freezing your herbs

-----
From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
The best way to do it is to cut the leaves off and then put them into a
  tight container and freeze them.  If you are in a hurry you can put
  in the stems too and cut the leaves off later.

From HeK:
  I've found the best way to freeze parsley is to cut it fine before
  freezing. Then you can scrap some directly from the jar into your
  soup/sauce/whatever without having to cut it while it's frozen /
  going mushy on you. I've done this for the others I've frozen as well
  - dill at least is way too stringy to be easily cut when frozen.

From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
Chop the herbs into the desired size and place into a ice cube tray.
  You can fit a premeasured amount in so you know how much in each
  segment (I use a tblsp).  Then add just enough water to cover the
  chopped leaf and freeze.  You can pop out the cubes and store in bags
  and have the flavor of fresh herbs year round.

-----
From: [e-mail] (Michael Rooney)
Another great way is to make them into pesto.  Try different herbs with
  pignoli nuts, pecans (dill and pecan is one of my favorites),
  walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, etc. until you find the combinations you
  like.  We freeze the pestos by putting saran wrap over a pint ice
  cream top (yes, the plastic one from a Dutch sounding one made really
  in NJ :-)), forcing in as much pesto as we can, and putting the saran
  wrap over the top.  Then we wrap it in aluminium foil and label it
  and put it in the freezer.  The best part is we have it all winter
  long and it tastes great on many things, especially pasta, chicken,
  pork, shrimp, fish, etc.

(also see Pesto, 4.9.2 below).

==========

4.6 Jelly, syrup and other sweet stuff

-----
also see 2.17.3 for garlic jelly and 2.20.3 for horseradish jelly.

=====
4.6.1  Flower / herb jelly
-----
Basic flower jelly recipe - can also be used for herbs
From: [e-mail] (Bess Haile):
    2 cups flower infusion:
        steep 2+ cups moderately packed flowers in 2 cups boiling water
        at least 30 minutes
  1/4 cup lemon juice (E. Toley says not to use bottled, but I do)
    4 cups sugar
    3 oz of liquid pectin (this will be 1/2 box of liquid Certo)
Bring first 3 ingredients to a boil you can't stir down.  Add pectin
  and boil 2 minutes.  Ladle into hot sterile jars. Seal in preferred
  manner.
Note (Bess Haile): I prefer the liquid certo to the powdered.  It seems
  to jell better with flowers.  Also, I find the extra minute of
  boiling helps to create a stiffer jelly, though 1 minute will create
  a clear jam-like texture.  I always use the 4 oz canning jars because
  I can give away some of the jellies without running out of all my
  stock.  Not everyone likes jelly from flowers.  My own family HATES
  rose jelly which is one of my favorites.  Also, note, rose petals
  have a bitter white bit where the petals join the flower.  Cut these
  off.  I do this by holding the flower, step up, and cutting around
  the flower, leaving all the bitter bits on the flower.  I've used
  Rose, Honeysuckle, Lavender, and many herbs too.  Rosemary makes a
  good jelly for a glaze on roast pork (and probably lamb). Lemon
  verbena and spearmint are great too!

Rose petal jelly
From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker)
  1 1/2 c rose petals
  1 1/2 c white grape juice
    1/2   water
  3 1/2 c sugar
  1     pkg liquid fruit pectin
Trim away white part of rose petals, wash petals thoroughly, and drain.
  Combine rose petals and grape juice in a sauce pan.  Bring to a
  rolling boil, stirring constantly; cook 1 min, stirring frequently.
  Add fruit pectin; cook stirring constantly, until mixture returns to
  a rolling boil. Continue boiling 1 min, stirring frequently.  Remove
  from heat, and skim off foam with a metal spoon.  Quickly pour jelly
  into hot sterilized jar leaving 1/4 in headspace; cover with metal
  lids and screw tight.  Process in boiling water bath for 5 min.
  Makes 3 pints.
For fun leave the rose petals in and you can tell folks you are eating
  roses - they end up with the funniest looks on their faces.

Rose petal jelly II
From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker)
  2 quarts fresh rose petals, loosely packed (about 3 dozen roses)
  1 quart boiling water
  4 cups sugar
  3 tablespoons lemon juice
Place petals in a large bowl. Add boiling water. Cover and steep for 20
  minutes, or until all color is out of the petals. Strain liquid into
  a shallow pan. Add sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat,
  stirring constantly until sugar has dissolved, and mixture comes to a
  rolling boil. Maintain boil until mixture gives a jelly test (2 drops
  form on side of spoon, then flow together). Skim.  Pour into hot
  sterile jars. Cover with melted parafin (or use your prefered sealing
  method). Makes 8 x 6-ounce jars.
Note (Gwen Baker):  The rose petal jelly I have had used added pectin.
  This recipe thinks rose petals have enough of their own.

Violet flower jelly
From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker)
Violet infusion:
  2 cups violet blossoms (don't have to pack tightly, just nicely
    full cups will do)
  2 cups boiling water
Pour boiling water on blossoms and cover 12-24 hours (If you can't get
  to the cooking within 24 hours, store in the refrigerator).
Jelly recipe:
  2   cups infusion
  1/4 cup  lemon juice
  1   pkg. powdered pectin
  4   cups sugar
Bring first 3 ingredients to a rolling boil (one you can't stir down).
  Add sugar all at once and bring back to rolling boil. Boil for 1
  minute. Remove from heat and let boiling die down.  Skim off foam
  with large spoon.  Pour immediately into hot sterilized jars and
  seal. Makes 4-5 cups of jelly. I use the half cup jars so I can give
  away samples without giving away everything.
Note (Gwen Baker): I've made two batches of this jelly and it is
  delicious!  The lemon juice turns the blue infusion the most glorious
  amethyst color.  No fruit jelly I've ever made has this color. It is
  tart and lemony, but does not taste exactly like lemon.  My violets
  are not parma violets, just plain old Virginia weeds.

=====
4.6.2  Flower / herb syrup
-----

From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker):
Rose petal syrup
  1     c rose petals
  1     c water
  1 1/2 c sugar
  3     whole cloves
Trim away white part of rose petals was and drain thoroughly.  Combine
  rose petals and water in a sauce pan bring to boil.  Then simmer for
  5 min. Add sugar and cloves.  Simmer until sugar dissolved(do not
  reboil) strain petals refrigerate. Makes 1 2/3 cup.

Use this for
Rose cooler:
  1/2 c rose syrup
    2 c club soda
        fresh rose petals.
Combine soda and syrup garnish with rose petals. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

From: [e-mail]
Violet Syrup
You need to collect as many violet flowers as you can find.  This is the
  hardest part--I can almost never find enough. (recipe based on a quart
  of violets, increase or decrease according to what you could find. You
  could increase the proportion of violets to syrup, making a stronger
  syrup, but I wouldn't recommend making it much weaker than this)  You
  may wish to wash the flowers, depending on where you found them.
The only important piece of information: go through and remove all the
  green parts from each flower.  Cooked, the green parts taste strong
  and spinachy. Just a little green stuff can ruin your whole batch.
  We learned this the hard way...
In a double boiler dissolve and heat 2 cups sugar and 3 cups water.  If
  you like thick syrup, add more sugar, or less if you like thin.  Make
  sure it's all the way dissolved and very hot.  Fold in the flowers.
  Put on the lid. Turn down heat so that bottom pan is just boiling -
  you don't want any steam to escape from the top pan at this point (if
  you can help it).  Let it cook for another ten minutes.  Take off heat.
  Let cool.  Put it in a jar.
Ta-dah.  You're done.  You could strain out the flowers if you wanted.  I
  recommend keeping the syrup in the fridge.  I bet you could use any
  edible flower instead of/in addition to violets, but I haven't tried it.

From: [e-mail] (-K.RAGHUNANDAN)
Gulkhan - rose petal syrup
A delicious, medicinally effective recipe using rose petals, is simple
  to prepare. Called "Gulkhan" in India, this is used as a flavoring in
  sweet dishes and is also eaten as such or with butter. Among its
  virtues are a nice flavor, mild sweet taste, good for reducing boils,
  keep skin and blood circulation clean.
Procedure: Peel fresh petals of 1 Rose flower, spread them in a
  container. Sprinkle a spoon of sugar. Repeat this process each day
  until, the quantity is about 250 grams (or to fill a 10 oz jar).
  Choose only pink/red variety of rose which has a fine flavor. Over a
  period of 10-20 days the petals dry out and the sugar layer melts to
  form a syrup. At this stage, take out the entire contents and make a
  paste (use mortar pestle). Put this mixture in a jar with a lid. The
  GULKHAN is now ready to use.

=====
4.6.3  Miscellanious sweet stuff
-----

[e-mail] (Waldek Trafidlo)
When I was a kid in Poland years ago my neighbour would prepare a rose
  petal spread by simply grinding rose petals with sugar, adjusting the
  proportions to taste as she went. I believe it required some days for
  the taste to settle but even during preparation it had a wonderful,
  "elegant" taste. She would often use in baking, also to sweeten and
  flavour tea.

==========

4.7 Potpourris and other uses for dried herbs / flowers

-----
Meaning non-culinary uses, in this culinary herbfaq.   ;)

From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
Dried herbs can also go into herb pillows and sleep pillows.

=====
4.7.1  Stovetop potpourri
-----

From: [e-mail] (Jeffrey Clayton):
  My favorite potpourri recipe is:
  dried orange peel, dried pine needles, dried mint, cinnamon sticks
  (broken into pieces), cloves
  This is a stove top potpourri -- the kind you put in water and simmer.
  Aromatherapy says this combination of scents is supposed to keep
  colds away.

=====
4.7.2  Dry potpourri
-----
From: [e-mail] (Mandy Haggith):
  I've been making pot-pourri since I was about 7 and still use the same
  method I used then - shoe boxes under the bed. I find that the number
  one ingredient is rose petals, best of all from wild dog roses, but
  any smelly rose will do. You'll need MASSES of rose petals. Lavender
  is also wonderful. Pick the flowers (and herb leaves) when they're
  warm and dry and smelly, stick them loosely in the shoe boxes (either
  mixed up or not, depending on what you want to do with them) and stir
  them with a warm dry hand a couple of times a day (or more). The
  petals will gradually dry out and you can use them in pot-pourri
  recipes after a few weeks. Under the bed is a good place because it
  is usually pretty dry, it's dark (so the petals keep some of their
  colour) and the smell of the drying petals gives you sweet dreams! I
  find the airing cupboard is too hot and dries the leaves out too fast
  leaving them shrivelled and not so sweet smelling.

From: [e-mail] (christopher hedley)
Ideas for Christmas:
Potpouris made by mixing 20 drops of essential oils into 2 teaspoons
of Orris root powder added to a couple of handfulls of dried flowers-
remember you can use aromatic woods as well.

=====
4.7.3  Drying flowers whole for potpourri
-----
From: [e-mail] (Diana Politika):
  If you want to dry the peony intact, either bury it in silica gel or
  use a 50/50 mixture of borax and cornmeal.  Leave it buried for about
  2 weeks and then tilt the container to get the mix to shift off the
  flower.  Silica works best, but the other is alot cheaper.  If using
  the borax mix, use a small soft paintbrush to get all the dust off.
  I've used many of these in arrangments and everyone goes nuts over
  them.

From: [e-mail] (gwen baker)
  When drying flowers using silica be careful.  It can speed the drying
  process, but it can also cause discoloration and leave a residue
  behind.  In about the same amount of time the flowers can be dried
  naturally.  Silica does allow you to keep a flower whole or to
  preserve a shape.  There is also a liquid ( I think it is a
  glycerine) that will preserve greenery and keep it soft and flexible.

=====
4.7.4 Bath salts
-----
From: [e-mail] (christopher hedley)
Ideas for Christmas:
Bath salts made by mixing 10-15 drops of essential oils 'personally
selected' in 2 teaspoons of baking soda, mixed well with 3 handfulls of
sea salt.

==========

4.8 Alcoholic beverages

=====
4.8.1  Wine
-----
From: [e-mail] (Gwen Baker)
Rose petal wine
  (who got it from Terry Pelley on rec.winemaking)
  One day before you prepare the must you should make a yeast starter:
  For one gallon of wine:
    4 oz. Water
    1 tsp sugar
  1/4 tsp nutrient
      Pinch of citric acid
  1/4 tsp yeast
For five gallons of wine:
    2 cups water
    2 tbs sugar
  1/2 tsp nutrient
  1/4 tsp citric acid
    1 package of yeast
Mix all the ingredients in an appropriate size bottle and shake to
  combine.  Loosely cover the bottle, do not seal it tight; a cloth
  held in place with a rubber band will work fine.  After sitting for a
  day this mixture should be fermenting and can be added to the must.
The must:
    6 cups rose petals (fresh) whites removed
  1/4 lb chopped white raisins
5 3/4 cups sugar
    2 tsp yeast nutrient
    2 tsp acid blend
    1 Campden Tablet (crushed)
      Yeast - All purpose or Rhinewine
Boil one gallon of water and combine with rose petals, raisings, and
  sugar in your primary fermenter.  Allow the mixture to cool to around
  75 degrees and add yeast nutrient, acid blend and campden tablet.

=====
4.8.2  Ginger ale / ginger beer
-----

From: Jeff Benjamin <[e-mail]>
I normally post this to homebrewing newgroups or mailing lists, so for
  those who are fermentationally challenged, here are a few notes on
  the recipe below:
"Sanitized fermentation vessel" simply means a glass container, like a
  gallon juice jug, that has been sanitized with a dilute bleach
  solution. Fill the container with  a mixture of two tablespoons of
  bleach per gallon of water.  Let sit for 15 minutes, then drain.
  Rinsing with clean water is optional, although if you do not rinse,
  let air dry completely before using.
An airlock, in this case, is used to allow CO2 produced during
  fermentation to escape while not letting air (and airborne bacteria)
  in. There are a couple of different varieties; you may remember the
  S-shaped ones from high school biology.  You can pick up one of these
  at your local homebrew supply shop.  If there isn't such a shop in
  your area, simply cover the top of the jug with some plastic wrap and
  tie *loosely* with string, so that it's not completely sealed.
On yeast:  again, you can get packages of dry ale yeast from your
  homebrew supply shop.  The fancy varieties of liquid yeast are
  overkill; a 99-cent package of dry yeast (Red Star, Edme, M&F, etc.)
  will do just fine.  Bread yeast would probably work fine, although
  I've never tried it.
On bottling:  sanitize the bottles before filling, just like the
  fermentation vessel.  If you use any auxilliary implements, like a
  funnel, it wouldn't hurt to sanitize them too.  You can re-use the
  white plastic screw caps on the 2l PET bottles; sanitize them as
  well.
Geez, now I've probably made the whole operation sound like nuclear
  physics.  Well, it ain't.  It is a little more like canning or
  pickling, in that there are some safety concerns, although the
  sanitizing is more to prevent off odors and flavors than to prevent
  deadly diseases. Honestly, it's really pretty easy to do.  As the
  homebrewers all say, "Relax, don't worry."  Have a ginger ale.

Ginger Ale
   1 gallon water
   1 pound white sugar (either granulated or corn will do)
 1/2 oz cream of tartar
   1 oz grated ginger
   1 lemon
     your favorite ale yeast
Boil water, stir in sugar, cream of tartar, ginger, and zest of lemon
  (yellow part of peel).  Cool to pitching temperature (<75F), add
  juice of lemon.  Transfer the whole mess to a sanitized fermentation
  vessel, pitch yeast, and cap with an airlock.
Bottle after 48 hours, using strong bottles (champagne or 2l soda pop
  bottles work well).  Let condition at room temperature for 2-3 days,
  then refrigerate.
Helpful Hints:
You can use more ginger (up to 3-4 oz per gallon) to get spicier ginger
  ale.
The jury is still out on whether it is necessary to peel the ginger. I
  peel it simply because it's easier to grate that way.
Don't second guess the fermentation time, and don't be worried if the
  air lock is still perking after 48 hrs.  If you let it go past 48
  hrs, you will probably end up with somewhat flat, not-very-sweet
  soda.
Please don't use regular beer bottles.  Champagne bottles are much
  stronger.  2l PET bottles work very well because you can squeeze them
  to see how carbonated they are, and relieve pressure if you're
  worried.
Make sure you store the ginger ale in the fridge.  This will help
  minimize any unwanted further fermentation.
Make in small quantities and drink soon.  The refrigerating will
  *minimize* fermentation, not stop it, so eventually you will run the
  risk of gushers or grenades.

From Sam Waring <[e-mail]>
Ginger Beer
    6 oz Ginger, fresh; bruised
    3 qt Water
    5 lb Loaf sugar
  1/4 lb Honey
  1/2 c  Lemon juice
   17 qt Water
    2    Drachms essence of lemon (about 2 ts)
    1    Egg
Put ginger and 3 quarts water into a very large kettle and boil for 30
  minutes. Add sugar, honey, lemon juice and 17 quarts more water.
  Strain through a cloth and when it is cold, add essence of lemon and
  egg. Let stand for 3-4 days before bottling. Yield: 1 serving.

From Sam Waring <[e-mail]>
Homemade ginger beer
    1 oz Ginger, fresh; peeled & -crushed
  1/3 c  Lime juice
         Lime peel; of 3 small
  1/2 c  Sugar
3 3/4 c  Water, boiling
  1/4 ts Yeast
  1/4 c  Water, lukewarm
Combine the crushed ginger, lime peel, juice and sugar in a jar or at
  least one quart capacity.  Pour in the boiling water. Cover loosely
  and let cool to room temp. Dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water
  and add. Seal the jar as tightly as possible and let stand at room
  temp overnight. Chill, strain and serve. Yield: 1 quart.

From: [e-mail] (David S Inman)
Ginger Beer on Dried Ground Ginger
  This recipe doesn't use ginger root - but it is good!
  First you need a starter . . .
Either Half fill a jam jar with tepid water, stir in one teaspoonful
  sugar and one teaspoonful ground ginger, plus one teaspoonful dried
  yeast; or, as above without yeast. Add one teaspoonful sugar every
  day and leave uncovered in jar until fermentation starts by natural
  yeast spores in the air. Then add one level teaspoonful ginger and
  one of suger to starter and stir well each day for six days. On the
  seventh day strain and halve the starter (keep one half for the next
  batch).
To strained liquid add twelve English cups (120 fluid ounces) of cold
  water, three cups sugar melted in four cups boiling water and juice
  of two lemons. Bottle and cork (do not use screw tops, bottles might
  explode) and keep for four days. Result is mildly alcoholic!

==========

4.9 Recipes calling for lots of herbs

=====
4.9.1  Gazpacho
-----
From: [e-mail] (Donna Beach)
White Gazpacho
  one qt buttermilk
  2 tbs cider or herb vinegar
  1 Tbs sugar or honey
  4-6 drops of tabasco or one teaspoon white pepper
  2 tgreen onions
  1 small sweet red bell pepper, diced
  1-2 cloves garlic
  2 stalks celery, cubed
  1 large cucumber, Peeled & seeded
  1 Tbs fresh dill chopped,
  1 Tbs fresh tarragon, chopped.
Put garlic and white parts of onion into food processor and chop. Then
  add cuke and celery with vinegar and process till fairly smooth.
  Combine buttermilk, sugar and white pepper or tobasco. Slice green
  parts of onion. Combine all ingredients and chill before serving. May
  be garnished with chopped red leaf lettuce or chopped tomatoes.

=====
4.9.2  Pesto
-----
Also see Using / preserving basil, 2.1.3, and Freezing your herbs, 4.4.

----- pesto recipes
From: [e-mail] (jnilsen)
    1 cup fresh Basil leaves, tightly packed
  2-3 cloves garlic
  1/4 cup frshly grated Parmesan cheese
  1/4 cup pine nuts
  1/4 cup olive oil
Process (or finely chop and mix) all but oil.  Slowly add oil.  Use.

From: [e-mail] (Donna Beach)
I never really follow a recipe when I make pesto. I usually put 4-6
  cloves of garlic in the food processor with 1/4 cup of olive oil and
  a couple of tablespoons of herb vinegar and then chop the garlic.
  Then I add at least 3-4 cups packed fresh sweet basil leaves and 3-4
  tablespoons of ground almonds. Some people use ground pine nuts. And
  1/4 cup or more of grated parmesan cheese (I like it fresh best). All
  this gets processed till the basil is chopped fine.
I have seen this basic pest recipe to include one-to-several peeled
  tomatoes--which is a great way to use up an abundance of tomatoes
  from your garden.
Later in the year when there's not as much sweet basil, you can put
  parsley into the mix. I have even seen a winter "pesto" made with
  fresh sage, but to me, it's not pesto without fresh sweet basil, with
  or without the tomatoes.

From: [e-mail] (Ruth J Fink-Winter)
This is one of my favorite pestos.
Asian Pesto
  1 clove garlic                  1" piece ginger root, peeled
  2 tblsp toasted sesame seeds    2 bunches cilantro, stems removed
  1 tblsp soy sauce               1 tblsp mirin or apple juice
  juice of 1 lime (about 3 tblsp) 1/4 tsp Tabasco sauce
  3 tblsp sesame oil (or less)    8 oz. soba noodles, cooked
Turn on food processor.  With motor running, drop garlic and ginger
  into feed tube.  Add seeds and cilantro; pulse til finely chopped.
  Add soy sauce, mirin or juice, and then slowly add oil in steady
  stream until pesto is desired consistency. Toss with hot noodles.

From: [e-mail] (ANDREAS GUENIN)
Sundried Tomato Pesto
  1/2 cup blanched sundried tomatoes
  1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  3/4 cup olive oil
  1/2 tsp. dried thyme
  2 cloves of garlic
  1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
Combine everything except the oil in a food processor, and then slowly
  add the olive oil while pureeing to the proper consistancy.

From: [e-mail] (Gregory R. Cook)
For a low fat (or no fat) alternative, cut down (or eliminate) the
  olive oil and add fresh squeezed lemon juice until you get the
  right consistency.  Personally, I like to use a little bit of
  olive oil for the texture.  Also, walnuts are often substituted
  for pine nuts.

-----
> ... pesto turning brown...

From: Xiaoyan Ma <[e-mail]>
I grow sweet basils to make pesto.  But for some reason my pesto always
turns brown (the surface only) within 2 minutes.
This is the recipe I have:
  1/2 cup chopped basil
  3 tbspoon parmesan cheese
  4 tbspoon olive oil
  2 tbspoon pinenut
  1 clove of garlic
  salt
I put 3 times of each ingredient into the blender and blend it for 2
  minutes then store the pesto in a jar.  I have tried a few times, the
  same thing happens each time.  The pesto tastes good but looks awful.
  When I mix the pesto with pasta, the whole thing turns brown right
  away.  Can someone tell me what causes the problem?

From: [e-mail] (Stavros Macrakis)
Pesto (like guacamole) turns brown by oxidation.  One way to prevent
  oxidation is to pour a thin layer of oil on top, or cover with
  plastic wrap (touching the pesto).
Your pesto will probably also turn out better if you use a mortar and
  pestle instead of a blender.  In fact, even a food processor seems to
  work better than a blender.  And the traditional cheese to use is not
  parmesan, but pecorino sardo (Sardinian ewe's milk cheese).
Unfortunately, good pecorino sardo is hard to get in the US, so you
  might have to substitute pecorino romano, also known as just
  "romano".

-----
From: [e-mail]
Pesto (Sorrel-Chive Herb Paste)
  1 c  Sorrel
  4 tb Shallots; finely minced
  4 tb Pine nuts; ground
  3 tb Parsley; chopped
  3 tb Chives; chopped
       Grated peel of 4 oranges
1/4    Onions, red; chopped
  1 tb Mustard, dry
  1 ts Salt
  1 ts Pepper, black
  1 pn Pepper, cayenne
3/4 c  Oil. olive
Wash the sorrel and dry it well, by hand or in a salad spinner. Chop
  the sorrel coarsely, and again squeeze away any liquid.  Blend the
  sorrel, shallots, pine nuts, parsley, chives, orange peel and onion
  in a food processor or blender.  (If using a blender, make sure these
  ingredients are already finely chopped.)  Add dry mustard, salt,
  pepper and cayenne, and mix again. SLOWLY drizzle in the oil while
  the blade is moving. Transfer to tempered glass jars and store in
  refrigerator (for up to 8 to 10 weeks) or in the freezer for up to a
  year.
NOTES:  Sorrel's peak season is summer, although you can find hothouse
  sorrel year round in some stores.  You may reduce the amount of
  orange peel by 1/4 or 1/2 if you'd like to emphasize the sorrel or
  other flavors. Walnuts or almonds may be substituted for the pine
  nuts.

-----
> I would like to hear from others about alternatives for using pesto.

From: [e-mail] (Wendi L Gardner)
I grow lots of basil and make tons of pesto.  what to do with all of
  that pesto?  yes pasta, yes bread, but other fun things to do with
  pesto...
(1) smash it into cream cheese (the ratio of pesto to cream cheese that
  I prefer is 1:3, but you can go more or less, obviously.)  add
  garlic, some plumped (blanched) sun dried tomatoes, whatever else you
  fancy - yum!
(2) toss pesto with white beans and vidalia onions, serve this
  concoction hot on a bed of fresh spinach.
(3) mix pesto with vegetable broth, toss in whatever veggies you have
  in the fridge and some macaroni, (i like broccoli, carrots,
  cauliflower, and rotini for this) and you have soup.
(4) find the juiciest beefsteak tomato you can...slice in half, slather
  with pesto, broil till bubbly.  messy, but with a good quality
  tomato--- more than worth the mess!
(5) fill mushroom caps with pesto plus a cheese (the pesto cream cheese
  mixture in #1 is good for this) sprinkle with bread crumbs and broil.

From: [e-mail] (Michelle Marie Manke)
Make pizza with a layer of pesto on the crust, then mozarella cheese,
  then dotted with feta. Try using reduced-fat mozarella, and
  scattering black olives & fresh tomatoes on top!

From: [e-mail] (Sarah G.)
Pesto and potatoes: On baked potatoes, swirled into mashed potatoes,
  mixed into homefried potatoes, used as a dipping sauce for french
  fries.
Make soup and swirl a spoonful into each bowl before serving.
Blend the pesto with vinegar and oil, or your favorite vinaigrette, and
  use as salad dressing
Make into soup... sautee some veggies, add broth and pesto, and simmer
  for pesto soup.
Thin it and use as a marinade for tofu, potatoes and veggies, then
  grill.
Use it for garlic bread filling (or is that what you meant?)  Or you
  could use it to smear over homemade bread before it comes out of the
  oven as a glaze
Sliced ripe tomatoes layered on a plate with pesto, and fresh
  waterpacked mozzerella.
It's easy to make a dairy free pesto.  Instead of using cheese, either
  use a mild flavored miso paste or SoyMage pretend grated cheese,
  which is completely vegan (no casein).  I usually just leave the
  cheese out altogether, letting the flavor of the basil, garlic, olive
  oil and nuts show through.

From: [e-mail] (Jennifer Norris)
  I make a potato salad with it.  Instead of the usual mayonaisse, I add
  pesto.  Besides potatoes, I add fresh snap peas, green onions, and if
  I want to make it a really substantial meal, black beans.  Gets rave
  revues....

=====
4.9.3  Miscellanious
-----
From: [e-mail] (Donna Beach)
Potatoes with Tarragon
  one large onion
  1 tablesppon oil
  4 medium potatoes.
  1 bay leaf
  3 Tb.-1/4 cup vinegar
  salt & pepper to taste
  one tablesppon chopped fresh tarragon
Chop onion and sautee till transparent. Peel and slice potatoes,
  1/4" thick. Add to onions and sautee for a couple of minutes, then
  add bay leaf, tarragon, salt and pepper. Add about 1/2 cup water to
  the skillet, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for 30 minutes
  or so--till the potatoes are done. Stir from time to time to make sure
  they aren't sticking and adding extra water if needed. Serve with
  the pan drippings.
I've seen a similar recipe using rosemary instead of tarragon.

-----
> I'm seeking a recipe for ginger salad dressing (like you get at a
  Japanese steak house)
From Sam Waring <[e-mail]>:
Ginger Dressing
   2 T  Ginger, fresh; peeled & -coarsely chopped
   2 T  Dijon mustard
   2 ts Hoisin sauce
   1 T  Balsamic vinegar
   1 T  Soy sauce, light
        Cayenne pepper; to taste
   1 T  Sherry
   2 T  Sesame oil
 1/4 c  Oil
Blend ingredients in blender or processor.  Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Fuvesleves (Herb Soup)

1 ts Marjoram leaves
1 ts Thyme leaves
1 tb 1" pieces of Chives
1 ts chopped Applemint
4 tb unsalted Butter
1 tb all-purpose Flour
6 c Water
1 ts Salt
a pinch of black Pepper
3 Egg yolks
1 tb Sour cream
3 hard Rolls, cut in half, toasted

Cook all the herbs in 2 tablespoons butter for 2-3 minutes. Sprinkle
with flour, then stir and cook another 4 minutes. Set aside. Pour 6
cups of water into a pot and bring to a slow simmer. Add salt and
pepper.
Mix egg yolks, sour cream and remaining butter; whip into the simmering
soup. Cook soup over low heat, stirring, until it thickens. Add herbs
and simmer another few minutes.
Place half of a toasted roll in a soup plate and ladle soup over it.

Notes: This recipe comes from Gyula Vasvary, master chef in the 1820's
of Hungary.

=====
4.9.4  Spice mixes
-----

From: [e-mail]
Cajun Spice
    9 ts Pepper, cayenne
4 1/2 ts Pepper, black
4 1/2 ts Salt, sea
    6 ts Oregano, dried, ground
    6 ts Thyme, dried
    6 ts Fennel, dried
    6 ts Cumin, ground
    6 ts Cardamon, ground
    6 ts Garlic powder
    6 ts Chile powder
    6 ts Coriander, dried
Whirl in blender or mix all together by hand and fill up jar to store.
Source: A Vegetarians Ecstasy, by Natalie Cederquist and James Levin,
M.D.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Cajun Spice Mix
   1 c  Sweet paprika
   1 ts Paprika
   1 tb Pepper, black
   1 tb Pepper, white
   3 tb Pepper, Cayenne
   1 tb Garlic powder
   1 tb Onion powder
   1 tb Salt
   1 tb Rosemary
Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend together. I usually put
in twice the amount of cayenne for my taste.

-----
From: [e-mail]
Jim Echols' Cajun Spice
   1 tb Paprika
   1 ts Salt
   1 ts Onion powder
   1 ts Cayenne powder
   1 ts Garlic powder
   1 ts Crushed chilies
   1 ts Ginger powder
 3/4 ts Pepper, white
 3/4 ts Pepper, black
 1/2 ts Thyme
 1/2 ts Oregano
Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl.  Store in an airtight
  container. Use in preparing blackened (cajun) trout. -- A special
  surprise for guests at shore lunches. Also try it in hamburgers, on
  sauteed chicken or turkey, and on popcorn.
From Calgary Herald, by Terry Bullick (89.05.03)

-----
From: [e-mail]
Sazon Preparado (Prepared Seasoning)

3 medium Onions; chopped
1 green bell Pepper; seeded, chopped
1 red bell Pepper; seeded, chopped
4 large Garlic cloves; peeled, chopped
1 tb Oregano
1 cup Scallions; chopped, both green and white
1/2 cup Parsley; coarsely chopped
1/2 cup Coriander; chopped
1 ts Tabasco sauce
1 tb Paprika, sweet
1 c Tomato paste
1 c Oil, olive
1/2 c Vinegar, white
Salt to taste

Combine all ingredients and blend, bit by bit, to a puree in blender.
Pour into saucepan and simmer, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. Cool
and bottle. Used to flavor stews, beans, rice and vegetables. Easy to
make and useful to have on hand.
Yield: 6 cups

-----
From: [e-mail]
Seasoning Mixture

2 medium Onions; chopped fine
2 tb Chives; chopped fine
3 Garlic cloves; crushed
1 red hot Pepper; seeded, mashed
1 ts Oregano
1/2 ts Cloves, ground
1 ts Salt
1 tb Lime juice

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly.
For suckling pick, use 1 cup rubbed well into the inside of the pig
prepared for roasting. To season whole cleaned fish, gash 2-3 times on
each side of backbone. Any fish or meat may be seasoned with this
mixture. Cook as directed in the individual recipes.
Yield: 1 cup

-----
From: [e-mail]
Sweat Sauce

16 habanero chiles; stemmed, seeded
1 cn Plums (17oz)
1 cn Apricots (17oz)
1 c Pimentos
2 c granulated sugar
1 c Plum Jam
1 c white vinegar

HEAT SCALE = HOT

This is a hot, spicy sauce for meats, poultry, or fish, or add it to
soups, like you would add Tabasco sauce. Place all the ingredients in a
blender and puree until smooth. Simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes,
stirring constantly.
From chili pepper magazine, reposted by [e-mail]
Yield: 6 servings

=====
4.9.5 Mustards
-----
Also see Using / Preserving Horseradish, 2.20.3, above.
-----

From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
Whole Grain Mustard

1 T. whole coriander seeds
6 T. whole mustard seeds (black and yellow)
1 T. green peppercorns
1/2 t. dried thyme
3/4 c. water
2 t. honey
1/4 c. red wine vinegar

Toast coriander seeds in dry skillet. Crush mustard seeds, peppercorns
and coriander seeds in a mortar. Mix seeds, thyme and water in upper
pan of double boiler. Let stand at least 3 hours. Heat water to
boiling. Stir in honey and vinegar and cook 10 minutes or until desired
consistency.

-----
From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
Herb mustard

1/4 c. black mustard seeds
1/4 c. yellow mustard seeds
1/4 c. dry powdered mustard
3/4 c. cold water
1/4 c. dry white wine
1/4 c. white wine vinegar
1 t. dried herb
1/8 t. ground allspice

Mix seeds and mustard with water in upper pan of double boiler. Let
stand at least 3 hours. In another pan, mix wine, vinegar, herb and
allspice and bring to a boil. Strain the liquid into the mustard and
blend well. Cook in double boiler until desired consistency.

-----
From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
English Pub Mustard

1 c. dry mustard
1/2 c. firmly packed brown sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 t. turmeric
6 oz. flat beer or ale

Put all but beer in food processor or blender. With machine running,
pour in beer in steady stream. Let sit in cool place for 2 weeks, then
refrigerate.

-----
From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
Horseradish Mustard

1 c. dry mustard
1/2 c . powdered sugar
1/2 t. salt
1/2 c. white wine vinegar
1/4 c. oil
1 T. fresh lemon juice
1/4 t. grated lemon peel
5 T. horseradish

Blend all ingredients. Let age in cool place for 2-8 weeks, then
refrigerate.

-----
From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
Dijon mustard

2. dry white wine
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, pressed
1 c. (4 oz) dry mustard
3 T. honey
1 T. oil
2 t. salt

Combine wine, onion and garlic in a non-aluminum saucepan. Heat to
boiling and simmer 5 minutes. Cool and discard solids. Add liquid to
dry mustard, stirring constantly til smooth. Blend in honey, oil and
salt. Heat slowly til thickened (watch fumes!) stirring constantly.
Cool in covered jar. Age 2-8 weeks in cool place, then refrigerate.

-----
From: Christel Reeve <[e-mail]>
Bavarian Brown Mustard

1/2 c. whole brown mustard seed
3/4 c. dry sherry
1 c. dry mustard
1/4 c. brown sugar
1/4 t. salt

Combine seed and sherry and let stand 2-3 hours. Blend until almost
smooth. Add remainder of ingredients. Let age 2-8 weeks (in cool, dark
place), then refrigerate. The longer you let it sit out before
refrigerating, the milder it will be.

-----
From: Sam Waring <[e-mail]>
SWEET GERMAN MUSTARD

1/4 c whole Mustard seeds
1/2 c hot tap Water
1/4 c cold tap Water
2 T dark brown Sugar
2 small peeled and halved Garlic cloves
2 pinches ground Cloves
5 T Dry mustard
1 c Cider vinegar
2 slices of Onion
1 1/2 ts Salt
1/4 ts ground Cinnamon
1/4 ts ground allspice
1/4 ts crumbled dried Tarragon
3 T light Corn syrup
1/4 ts Dill seeds

Soak together the mustard seeds, dry mustard, hot water, & 1/2 cup of
the vinegar for at least 3 hours.  Combine in a saucepan the rest of
the vinegar, cold water, onion, brown sugar, salt, garlic, cinnamon,
allspice, dill seeds, tarragon & cloves.  Bring to a boil, boil for one
minute & cover. Let stand one hour.

Scrape soaked mustard mixture into a blender. Strain into it the spice
infusion, pressing solids into a strainer to extract all flavor.
Process the mustard (covered) till like a coarse puree with a definite
graininess. Pour mixture into the top of a double boiler set over
simmering water & cook 10 minutes, stirring often till the mixture is
noticeably thicker.  Remove from heat, add the Karo and pour into a
storage jar. Let it cool uncovered, then cap and store.  Can be
refrigerated or not.  Makes about 1-1/2 cups.

-- Better than Store-Bought by Schneider and Colchie

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5 Sites to see

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5.1 FTP sites

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I keep archives of alt.folklore.herbs on sunSITE:
by gopher, by ftp, or try the mirror in Japan.
  ftp sunSITE.unc.edu /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/
    herbal-medicine/archives/afh/
Lawrence London keeps archives of rec.gardens on sunSITE:
by gopher, by ftp, or try the mirror in Japan.
  ftp sunSITE.unc.edu /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/
    gardening/discussion-groups/rec.gardens/
There's a LOT of other newsgroups on sunSITE, too.

I also keep herblist logs on sunSITE:
by gopher, by ftp, or try the mirror in Japan.
  ftp sunSITE.unc.edu /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare/
    herbal-medicine/archives/herblist/

Both alt.folklore.herbs and the herblist have more traffic on medicinal
herbs than on culinary herbs; for herb gardening and culinary uses the
usual place to find information is rec.gardens.

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5.2 WWW pages

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Not a lot, are there? Additions welcome.
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Algy's Herb page's got most of the links that count. Go see it under
http://frank.mtsu.edu/~sward/herb.html
The netscape version is kept updated.

There is a searchable database of factsheets on Ohio State
University's WebGarden. Search for specific herbs to find factsheets
on them: http://hortwww-2.ag.ohio-state.edu/FactsheetFind.html

Or try the Garden Gate:
http://www.prairienet.org/garden-gate/

Susan Hattie Steinsapir keeps recipes here:
http://www.andreas.com/susan.html

My Herbal Homepage has some links, and there's more in the medicinal
herbfaq, also available here: http://sunsite.unc.edu/herbmed

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THE END.
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